27th February

VOTE NOW! Should Filby have his hair cut? Go to Adam's blog to cast your vote, link to the right. (You know how I feel on this subject)

New Zealand 16th - 27th February

About New Zealand

NZ's geographic isolation meant that it was one of the last countries of any size to be colonised. The first people to reach New Zealand were the Polynesians, who had originated in Asia and spread out across the Pacific some 3,000 - 4,000 years ago.

Over the centuries, Maori society evolved from the archaic culture of early moa-hunters (large flightless bird, now extinct), into the sophisticated social system of the 'classic Maori' period. Kinship was of fundamental importance in Maori society, and inter-tribal warfare was a constant feature of this time.

The first European to sail to New Zealand was the Dutchman, Abel Tasman, but after a bloody encounter with the Maori he never set foot on land. Another 130 years passed (1769) before James Cook arrived, rediscovering the country and placing it, literally, on the world map.

16th - 19th February, Auckland

We arrived in Auckland feeling a little jaded after celebrating Paddy's 40th birthday in Tahiti, apple vodka, yum. As accommodation in downtown Auckland was choca, we booked into a hotel in Takapuna, over the water, north of the city. Takapuna is a very attractive suburb on the sea and it made a great base for trips into the city and for chores (including sending Ranu Rakapuna, our Easter Island statue home). We headed to a nearby restaurant for dinner and it was wonderful to understand the menu and what was going on around us. Surrounded by groups of families and friends enjoying a Friday night out, I felt a pang of home sickness. Our surroundings felt so familiar, yet we were so far from home!!

Headed into the city and took in the sights, including the Sky Tower (where loonies threw themselves off from 300 meters attached to bungis) and the water front. What a lovely place, busy enough to have a buzz but still relaxed and uncrowded. We enjoyed the sunshine and watched the world and their expensive yachts floating by.

Visited Adam's Great Aunty Pat, and tried to keep track of family news, which includes Adam's five second cousins and their 19 offspring. Aunty Pat invited us to stay for the night and knocked us up a lovely steak dinner. Felt great to be in a real home again.

20th - 21st February, Russell

From Auckland headed 4 hours north to Russell in The Bay of Islands. Russell is a very historic town which includes New Zealand's oldest church and the Duke of Marlborough Hotel, proud possessor of NZ's oldest liquor licence. Lord John Russell wished to establish the town as the country's capital back in the 1840's, however the capital was transferred to Auckland, and the town rapidly declined. From our visit to local museum it seemed like a pretty sordid place during that time, home to drunken sailors, whalers and convicts (think Saturday night in Portsmouth). Russell was burnt to the ground in the late 1800's but today is a most pleasant town of 4 blocks, and no sign of axe-weilding Maori.

The Flagstaff was erected after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi (which was meant to bring peace between the English and the Maori, but by all accounts generally stitched up the Maori) in 1840. The flagstaff symbolised English domination and as such was cut down four times by local Maori.

We took a day long boat trip into the Bay of Islands, had a very brief swim with 2 rather large bottle nose dolphins (Adam and I were quick off the side of the boat and luckily got to them before they raced off in pursuit of more interesting things, a shoal of mackerel). We also spotted a Brydes whale and watched it surfacing for 2o minutes as it circled its dinner.

Above: We stopped off in a beautiful cove and took a steep walk up the hillside and enjoyed the views, before snorkeling in the bay.

Above: From Russell we crossed the width of the country, heading for the Waipoua Kauri Forest. On route we stopped off for a sandy bar-b-que at Hakianga bay. Beautiful and totally unspoilt.

22nd February, Waipoua

Waipoua Forest is the last remnant of the extensive forests that once covered much of the North Island. We joined a twilight encounter tour, where two Maori guides took us through the forest and shared with us their knowledge of the flora, including edible plant life (the circled tips of fern being a staple) and those used for medicinal purposes.

The tour also included prayers, blessings, stories and Maori songs. We reached New Zealand's largest living tree, Tane Mahuta (God of the Forest) at 9pm and under the light of the stars. Tane Mahuta is estimated to be 2,000 years old, is 51 meters high, with the girth of its trunk over 14 meters. It was a great experience, at one with nature and a good introduction to the culture, spirituality and beliefs of the Maori people (even if I did feel a bit giggly at times - very mature!)

After our tour, I thought I should give Adam his own special Maori name for our time in New Zealand. Whatafatti was not amused!

Above: Me hugging a Kauri tree

Above: The second largest tree in New Zealand, also featured in the Lord of the Rings, the animated talking tree.

So what happened to the Kauri trees? British ship builders chopped them down and gum diggers bled them dry. The gum was used for varnish.

23rd February - Waitomo

South to Waitomo, home of black-water rafting.

Fitted out in wetsuit and cavers helmet, we set off on our underground adventure to the caves of Waitomo. During the 2.5 hour trip we floated through glow worm caves in inflatable tubes, swum through icy cold streams, climbed over rocks and through tunnels, admiring stalactite's, stalagmites, limescale curtains, straws, and all things cavey.

Our guide had a series of well rehearsed gags at the ready, which generally involved getting us really relaxed in the pitch dark, and then making us jump out of our skin. At one point we crawled along a 10 meter tunnel on hands and knees in the total darkness. I am not a big fan of caves, so this was particularly hard for me. Apparently, Andy would normally have crawled into the other end of the tunnel and grabbed my hands (funny NOT!) but as he heard me whimper and violently curse, he decided against it. Adam tried to keep up with me but had no chance as I think I broke the cave tunnel crawling world record! Filby completed a number of other squeezes through tight crevasses, which made me breathless just watching him.

I did think we may have to call cave rescue at one point. He was a little bit of a clumsy caver and took several tumbles, including one giant splosh and crunch as he hit an under water rock - owch. I was too busy baby-stepping and clinging on with 3 points of the body at all times to fall anywhere.
Had to have a sleep after caving, too much adrenalin and facing fear for one day!

24th - 25th February - Rotarua

Headed south again to Rotarua

Pitched our tent and headed for town. Phooooooooooaaaawwww, is that you?? No, its the sulphur clouds rising from this volcanic wonderland.

Above: Visited Whakarewarewa (conveniently know as Whaka) Village, which features boiling mud pools, silica terraces, steam vents, geysers and other thermal phenomena.

Above: Our guide, the only Maori gay in the village

After enjoying a corn in the cob cooked in a large thermal pot and a Maori cultural performance, we headed for the Zorb.

Above: Adam rolling down the hillside in his hydro-zorb (giant hamster ball filled with water)

If that was not enough excitement for one day, we drove on to Lake Taupo and jumped on the last Huka Jet boat ride of the day. Quite a thrill I must say as the boat raced along the shallows, barely avoiding tree stumps and black swans, before launching into a series of 360 degree turns. Comedy hairdos at the end of that little excursion I can tell you.

Now, our sixth day of camping at the luxurious Top 10 chain of campsites with very nice facilities. Shame about Tonto the mini tent.

Above: Me cooking up Kiwi stew for dinner, washed down with a posh plastic cup of wine

26th February - Lake Taupo to Wellington

Above: Sadly, did not get the best views of Lake Taupo as the weather was a bit drizzly.

Long drive from Lake Taupo to Wellington, pretty countryside along the way. Sure I spotted a telly tubbie doing its funny dance on the perfectly green hillside.


Made camp on the outskirts (ok then, on an industrial estate) of Wellington. However, we were minutes from a lovely long beach, perfect for an early evening run. The run was badly needed after my new found love, Big Nuts ice cream.

Headed into Wellington and before long found Macs Brewery on the waterfront. Had a great dinner washed down by a Macs Great White beer. Sadly did not have enough time to take in any further attractions in Wellington. Enough time though to get a feel for another lovely sea side city.

27th February - Wellington, North Island to Picton, South Island

All aboard the Interislander ferry to the South Island.


Above: The stunning Malborough Sound as ferry pulls into Picton

Now off on an action packed tour of the South Island, when tomorrow we start our cycle of the Queen Charlotte track!! Will keep you posted.