18th February

CHECK OUT OUR WOBBLY VIDEO CLIPS NOW POSTED ON YOUTUBE!! LINK IN RIGHT MARGIN. MORE TO COME SHORTLY.

3 - 7 February - Easter Island

Wow, Easter Island was beautiful and fascinating. We LOVED our time on the island. The mystery, legends and scenery blew us away.

Easter Island? What, where and how?? From the Easter Island Home Page

Easter Island has long been the subject of curiosity and speculation. How and why did its inhabitants carve and transport the massive statues, which surround the island? What remains of this culture today, and what lessons can we learn from their legacy?

Easter Island is over 2,000 miles from the nearest population center, (Tahiti and Chile), making it one of the most isolated places on Earth. A triangle of volcanic rock in the South Pacific - it is best known for the giant stone monoliths, known as Moai, that dot the coastline. The early settlers called the island "Te Pito O Te Henua" (Navel of The World). Admiral Roggeveen, who came upon the island on Easter Day in 1722, named it Easter Island. Today, the land, people and language are all referred to locally as Rapa Nui.

There has been much controversy and confusion concerning the origins of the Easter Islanders. Thor Heyerdahl proposed that the people who built the statues were of Peruvian descent, due to a similarity between Rapa Nui and Incan stonework. Some have suggested that Easter Island is the remnant of a lost continent, or the result of an extra-terrestrial influence. Archaeological evidence, however, indicates discovery of the island by Polynesians at about 400 AD - led, according to legend, by Hotu Matua. Upon their arrival, an impressive and enigmatic culture began to develop. In addition to the statues, the islanders possessed the Rongorongo script; the only written language in Oceania. The island is also home to many petroglyphs (rock carvings), as well as traditional wood carvings, tapa (barkcloth) crafts, tattooing, string figures, dance and music.

The population of Easter Island reached its peak at perhaps more than 10,000, far exceeding the capabilities of the small island's ecosystem. Resources became scarce, and the once lush palm forests were destroyed - cleared for agriculture and moving the massive stone Moai. In this regard, Easter Island has become, for many, a metaphor for ecological disaster.

Thereafter, a thriving and advanced social order began to decline into bloody civil war and, evidently, cannibalism. Eventually, all of the Moai standing along the coast were torn down by the islanders themselves. All of the statues now erected around the island are the result of recent archaeological efforts.

Contacts with western "civilization" proved even more disastrous for the island population which, through slavery and disease, had decreased to approximately 110 by the turn of the century. Following the annexation by Chile in 1888, however, it has risen to more than 2,000, with other Rapanui living in Chile, Tahiti and North America. Despite a growing Chilean presence, the island's Polynesian identity is still quite strong. Easter Island today, remains one of the most unique places you will ever encounter; an open air museum showcasing a fascinating, but unfortunately lost, culture. The Rapanui are among the friendliest people you will ever meet, and the landscape is truly amazing - with its volcanic craters, lava formations, beaches, brilliant blue water, and archaeological sites.

Above: Open air museums where Moai have been reconstructed

Above: Natural crater lake

Above: The Moai quarry. These are in fact complete statues that have been abandoned in the quarry which are now buried to head height. There are hundreds of moai in various states of completion. The Moais were abandoned if flawed or if they became damaged on their journey to local villages. This was the highlight of our island tours, a fascinating place.

Above: Starting point of the Rapanui 'bird man' competition. Each year, one representative from the island's 6 clans would climb from the cliff tops, swim to nearby islands, hang around the nesting sooty turns awaiting the arrival season's first egg. The finder of the sacred egg would return this to the mainland and his tribe leader would become 'bird man' for one year. This gave him the most powerful status on the island and his tribe also enjoyed special privileges during this time. So, what else was in it for the poor chap that jumped down a cliff, swam shark infested waters and hung around for days waiting for a sooty turn to lay its egg? Well, no less than the best looking virgin on the island. Enough to motivate any man! Adam fancied his chances had he been given the opportunity.

A six hour walk around one third of the island - amazing views and remains of abandoned Rapanui villages scattered across our path.

Finishing the six hour walk in over 80 degrees - phew. I know, I know, I really do have to loose the hat!

What I thought was heat rash, turned out to be over 50 insect bites. A quick trip to the Easter Island Hospital and an anti-histamine jab sorted me out. Ekkk, itchy, itchy, itchy.

We were lucky enough to visit the island during their annual festival to crown the Princess of Rapanui. Every day and evening there were events including tribal dancing, costume displays, musical concerts etc. We spent an afternoon watching the banana sledge competition. Most entertaining. Nuttas with buns of steel!

Above: Adam being interviewed by the Discovery Channel.

Above: View of Hanga Roa, Easter Island's only town

Above: Having spent our final pesos on two last pisco sours we waved South America good bye!

Whilst feeling a little sad that phase one of our travels were over, I reflected on our wonderful three month adventure. After much deliberation, my top 10 favourites of South America are the following:

1st place. The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, Peru
2. Torres Del Paine National Park, Chile
3. Cruise in Chilean Archipelago
4. Easter Island

5. Glacier Trek, Perito Marino, Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina
6. Villarica Volcano Walk, Chile
7. Buenos Aires, Argentina
8. Igassu Falls, Argentina
9. Whale watching and elephant seals, Peninsular Valdes, Argentina
10. Colca Canyon, Peru