Thursday, March 08, 2007

9th March

More of New Zealand

Queen Charlotte Track - 28th February - 1st March

As one of New Zealand's Great Walks, we should have taken the hint, and walked. However, with so much to see in such a short space of time, we decided to cycle it. I am sure I had read that it was a 'flat track' but I guess that meant the surface of the track, rather than the contours of the hills. Whoops!

The track runs within the Malborough Sound and is spectacular.

After a tough 4.5 hours of pushing our bikes, we arrived at Portage Cove and relaxed for the afternoon.

Above: Me in a big mood pushing bike up hill for 1.5 hours on day two. I am sure this wasn't my idea.

Above: Cheeky Weka (Bush Hen) jumped out on us, looking for a snack. The Weka, a past dietary favourite of the Maoris and settlers.
Above: Views from the Queen Charlotte Track

Abel Tasman National Park - 2nd - 3rd March

Following our heroic bike pushing, with occasional cycling, took the water taxi back to Picton and made our way towards Abel Tasman National Park. Stayed just outside of Nelson on a rock hard camping pitch, where we were offered the 'whacker' (pronounced 'wheeeker') ie. club hammer and pointy thing, to get Tonto the tent secure for the evening.

Above: Kaiteriteri beach - not a bad view!

Travelled through wine country and fruit farms and reached Kaiteriteri by mid morning. After pitching the tent, headed for the gorgeous beach and hired a double kayak for the afternoon, (referred to as divorce kayaks). If only we were married (maybe one day, for those that keep asking!), we may well have been divorced by the end of our little trip.

We received instructions on the boundaries for our kayak adventure. We headed for the Split Apple Rock, which should have been an easy hours paddle. After 2 hours of kayaking into the wind and waves, with no rock in site, we headed for home. It wasn't until an hour later, we turned into a bay and there it was.

Above: Split Apple Rock

We had kayaked past the rock as we were so far out to sea and heading for an island which was completely out of bounds (due to the dangerous boat-tipping type waves). Filby was blamed immediately for poor map reading. I bratishly downed paddle. We then realised our kayak was long overdue. Quick! For the first time during the day we were co-ordinated.

Above: Me with the kayak. Filby seemed to have a little problem with my unique style of kayaking which involved holding my paddle at almost head height with a little pause and jerk between strokes.

Above: However, as you can see, even though divorced before we are ever married, this little beach was enough to make anyone dance. A must watch video clip.

Above: Abel Tasman National Park

The following day we took a boat trip along the stunning coast line of Abel Tasman National Park, lined with white sandy bays and native forest. We were dropped at Bark Bay and walked for a few hours to Torrent Bay, enjoying the blue lagoon views on route. Who needs the Caribbean?

Big Driving Day, West Coast Highway 1 - 3rd March

We were bound for Queenstown and broke the journey with a stop in Greymouth. Not much to note here, except for the fact that everything was shut at 8pm. New Zealand's media are focused on the country's increasing crime rate, young drunks, car theft, home burglaries etc. all on the rise. We have not experienced any threat or vibe during our travels. I guess it is all relative and some what new to the average New Zealander.

In Greymouth, there is a liquor ban, so no booze allowed in the street, on the beach etc, due to young folk and their fistycuffs. The lady in the chip shop warned Adam of the dangers of Greymouth and encouraged us to stay safely in our tent for the evening. We didn't have much option as everything else was shut!

Big Driving Day, West Coast Highway 1 - 4th March

Via Frans Joseph Glacier

A great stop to break up our journey, as we took the short hike view Frans Joseph Glacier. An impressive, receding glacier. I will also remember it as the place I pulled a caterpillar out of my salad.

Above: More views on route to Queenstown

Queenstown - Milford Sound - 5th - 6th March

Voted New Zealand's number one place to visit, we booked onto an overnight tour to Milford Sound. The coach departed at 9am and Ben the driver gave a very colourful commentary for the duration of the trip. He particularly liked to focus on the potential dangers of our journey, hill slides, tree fall, sheep crossing etc. Not one of life's optimists.

Above: We broke our road trip, boarding the Kingston Flyer steam train, for a half an hour trip from Kingston to Fairlight. I didn't notice any hoody wearing gypos, so not the Kingston we know and love. Travel in the early 1900's must have been quite romantic compared to the super coach we were riding.

The scenery on route was spectacular as we headed into Fjordland National Park.

Above: Naughty Keas, moutain parrots, found to be the most intelligent of all birds. Between games of chess and advanced suduko, the also enjoy chewing rubber window wipers and the bending ariels of passing camper vans.

Above: The Wanderer and Mitre Peak in the background
We arrived at the Wanderer at 4pm and set off on our cruise of the fjord. Sheer faced mountains rise 2,000 feet all around. Incredible to think this landscape was carved by glaciers millions of years ago. I had never felt so small. The cruise took us to the mouth of the Tasman sea, where things got a bit rocky. We headed into a sheltered cove which has been used over centuries by whaling and sealing ships.

Today, just two boats settle regularly for the night in the cove. The Endeavor, which is designed for comfort with en suite cabins, and The Wanderer, the party boat, with dorm style cabins and booze flowing into the early hours. After an initial feeling that I should have been on the other boat, I got into the swing of things, we met a great crowd and had a smashing evening. A few youngsters jumped overboard at midnight which was very foolish, particularly as the water is fed by glacier rivers. Southern Fur Seals circled the boat, feeding late into the night.
Fjordland is one of the wettest places on earth, and when we awoke, it certainly felt like it. We took another cruise to the open sea and marvelled at the newly flowing waterfalls that cascaded vertically down the mountain sides. To quote Ben the coach driver, 'Fjordland was not made on a sunny day.'

Above: View of Milford Sound


During the journey back to Queenstown, the landscape literally burst to life. Streams and waterfalls flowed dramatically all around us.

2 comments:

Steffi said...

Fantastic pictures again! Good luck for your next stations of your travel!!

Bye,Steffi

Andrew said...

Hey Greymouth is a pretty safe place to walk around, Rita at the chip shop appear to be too cautious.