Saturday, May 05, 2007

Welcome to Japan, the land of the rising sun

Tokyo - 29th April - 3rd May

Wow, all of a sudden I feel like a real foreigner. Not only are Adam and I taking photographs of everything but we can not understand the train map, signs, announcements, come to think of it, anything! We are lost, tired and trapped in subway ticket gates with our rucksacks on. Ekkkkkkkk, welcome to Japan!!

That said, after finally reaching our lovely little Hotel Sakura, trying on our fresh Japanese bath gowns (see below), having a power shower and sleeping on our rock hard beds with fluffy cloud soft duvets, I started to fall in love with Tokyo.


So far, loving the;
Neon
Very helpful people, particularly when lost, which is often
Lovely looking smart ladies of Tokyo
Japanese fashions and handbag obsession
Gadget overload and dangly things (b hanging from mobile phones
Toilets with warm seats and built in bum washing facilities
Pick your own meal from plastic-lookalike-food-in-display-case restaurants
Trains that arrive and depart on time (to the second)
Japanese gardens, so peaceful and relaxing
Little dogs, particularly when carried in handbags or doggy push chairs

Very entertaining buskers
Freaky teenagers, goths, punks, mods, the cast from the Rocky Horror Show - they are all here

Obsession with cleanliness
Tasty food, sushi (fish and rice), tempura (prawn or vegetables in delicate batter), ramen (noodle soups), yakitori (skewers of chicken and veg)
Japanese sake and beer - also delicious
Vending machines selling everything from cold green tea to beer, can be found everywhere, even on the top of mountains
Bullet trains - wow
Paddy fields and houses with curled-up roof tops
Japanese temples
Onsen hot baths
Amusement at Adam's legs hanging off bed ends and his feet crammed into Japanese slippers
Hotel corridors looking like something from 'the shire'- made for little people
Fact that insects are small and not dangerous

Not so keen on;
The fact that I feel like a giant gypsy and my thigh is width of the average Japanese lady's torso
Pop socks with high heels, a fashion I believe should be reserved for eccentric grandmothers
Vast queues at train station
Soup with blanket weed (not sure exactly what it was, but never again)
Chewy sushi, uncooked eel and octopus are to be avoided
The sushi chef catching a fish and filleting it whilst it was still alive, just as we were enjoying a 7am sushi breakfast
Hot bean curd and rice balls that we tried at Mount Fuji. Felt very bad as there was a great deal of effort going into the preparation
Seeing so many exhausted people, particularly on trains, such an overworked nation!
Lack of smiling. Find it very hard when a smile is not returned. I am sure I have probably offended half of Japan by keenly showing my massive gnashers.

Tokyo - 30th May

Above: The Imperial Palace East Garden

Above: Views from Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices, Shinkuju

Above: Shibuya area, Yoyogi Park. Take That, Japanese style.


Above: Dinner at traditional Japanese restaurant, where Namahage visits diners to ensure they have been good boys and girls. A very enjoyable and entertaining evening with Adam's friend, Koichi and his wife, Junka.

So, who is Namahage and why is he sooooooo scary?

Namahage is a tradition that is observed throughout the Oga Peninsula peninsula that juts out into the Sea of Japan from northern Honshū, Japan. The ritual is carried out to cleanse the soul and offer prayers that the year to come will be a good one. On New Year's Eve, villagers (virgin men) dress up as fierce monsters (or demons, bogeyman), called Namahage and enter the houses of the village asking if any misbehaving children live there. They warn children not to be lazy or cry. The small children are often frightened and run and hide. The parents will reassure the Namahage that no bad children live in their house, and offer the Namahage refreshments. An obvious purpose of the festival is to encourage young children to obey their parents and to behave, important qualities in Japan's heavily structured society.

I believe the thought of Namahage may have been enough to stop me talking whilst Dad tried to watch the evening news. A bit more of an incentive to behave rather than just another night out in the hallway!

Tokyo - 1st May

After a very early morning call and with a mild sake hangover, we headed to Tsukiji Fish Market. Not for the faint hearted, we weaved through pallets of giant tuna, red eyed snappers, purple octopus, wriggling eels and every other fishy thing imaginable, all whilst a million electric carts stacked with Tokyo's daily seafood supplies attempted to mow us down. After being splashed in the face with fish juice and slipping on fish guts, we decided it was time for a sushi breakfast. We congratulated ourselves on eating the freshest sushi money can buy, and then the sushi chef pulled a fishy from the tank ahead of us and carved fillets from it whilst it was still alive. Ugggh, I want my Mummy. He could have at least chopped his head off first.

Above: Tsukiji Fish Market and sushi for brekkers

That evening we visited the 'Lost in Translation' bar at the top of the Park Central Hyatt Hotel. Never have I felt so under-dressed. Adding to the discomfort of such a formal setting, we had to pay 10 quid a head cover charge, the service was appalling and the clouds rolled in and completely obscured the view. Ummm, not one of my better ideas.

Tokyo - 2nd May

Moved to new hotel in Bayside Area. It was beautiful day and enjoyed the views from Yurikamome Train and Tokyo Beach (no swimming allowed).

That afternoon, visited the Asakusa area, home of the 6th century Sensoji Temple. Here we wafted holy smoke over our bodies to heal our ailments and gargled holy water. At least I gargled it. Adam swallowed his, which was probably not a bad thing!

2 comments:

Ray said...

Please send bog seat warmer so I can spend longer reading newspaper!!

Ray said...

Mr F. in bath gown-David Beckham eat your heart out?