Koyasan, 13th - 14th May

We reached Koyasan via traditional train and near-vertical funicular railway. The journey itself was very pleasant climbing over 1,000 meters into the mountains.

We arrived at our temple lodgings, at Eiko-in and were greeted warmly by the young monks. Our room was a traditional ryokan style, matted floors, sliding panel doors and not a lot else. We had a lovely view over the stunning temple garden. Felt a bit bad about the monk's electricity bill, but get that heater on. Brrrrrrrrrrr!

Above: Views of our temple lodge, Eiko-in

After the monks had carried our rucksacks to our rooms with embarrassing ease, we went in search of the tomb of Kobo Daishi, the monk who first brought Shingon (True Word) Buddhism to Japan from China in 806. Kobo Daishi started the religious retreat of Koyasan which attracted a great following, at one time there were over 1,500 monasteries and today there are 110 remaining temples and a population of 7,000. The historic, spiritual and natural setting of Koyasan create a very unique and calming atmosphere.

Kobo Daishi started his eternal meditation in 821 (awaiting the arrival of the future Buddha), and the cemetery that houses his tomb is very impressive, with over half a million graves. Many Japanese leave hair or ashes of their dead relatives close to the Kobo Daishi's tomb, handy for his reawakening.

Above: Views from Okunoin, Temple and cemetery. Buddhist followers wet the guardian deities, a blessing for the mass of the dead.

We returned to the temple lodgings in time for our 5.30pm dinner. Our dinner had been prepared beautifully by the monks and included tofu in many forms. Tofu creation is a real labour of love, an extract of soy milk, and the monks have been following the same methods for their tofu creation for over 1,000 years. Ohhhh, but it just isn't that easy to eat when presented in a cold slab. We ate almost everything, delicious noodles, soup, veggie tempura, pickles etc. I just felt so bad leaving a good portion of that tofu slab untouched.

Headed for a bath, again typical ryokan style. Shower facilities for proper full-on soaping, followed by onsen hot bath. As I entered the bathroom I thought to myself, well, that is a bit of a flimsy see-through curtain between me and the corridor. I had no choice but to get stripped off, as was going about my business when the sliding door behind me closed. Whoops, hadn't noticed that, and had just revealed my full nakedness to a monk!!!! Adam said that he would probably have to kill himself. I didn't think I looked that bad starkers! How embarrassing!

The following morning we rose early to attend two Buddhist services, the 6.30am service involved traditional chanting and at 7am, the fire service, during which a monk built a purifying fire, with the aid of tinder, oils and incense.

Views from Koyasan

Above: Konpondaito Pagoda

Above: Daimon, mammoth gate stands as main entrance to Koyasan

Above: Kongobuji Temple, the main temple of Shingon Buddhism, built by warlord Hideyoshi Toyotomi for the mass of his mother when she passed away. Largest rock garden in Japan. Dry rock gardens are representations of natural world, with raked sand = sea and rocks, often moutains, boats etc., or in this case, two large dragons.