27th February

VOTE NOW! Should Filby have his hair cut? Go to Adam's blog to cast your vote, link to the right. (You know how I feel on this subject)

New Zealand 16th - 27th February

About New Zealand

NZ's geographic isolation meant that it was one of the last countries of any size to be colonised. The first people to reach New Zealand were the Polynesians, who had originated in Asia and spread out across the Pacific some 3,000 - 4,000 years ago.

Over the centuries, Maori society evolved from the archaic culture of early moa-hunters (large flightless bird, now extinct), into the sophisticated social system of the 'classic Maori' period. Kinship was of fundamental importance in Maori society, and inter-tribal warfare was a constant feature of this time.

The first European to sail to New Zealand was the Dutchman, Abel Tasman, but after a bloody encounter with the Maori he never set foot on land. Another 130 years passed (1769) before James Cook arrived, rediscovering the country and placing it, literally, on the world map.

16th - 19th February, Auckland

We arrived in Auckland feeling a little jaded after celebrating Paddy's 40th birthday in Tahiti, apple vodka, yum. As accommodation in downtown Auckland was choca, we booked into a hotel in Takapuna, over the water, north of the city. Takapuna is a very attractive suburb on the sea and it made a great base for trips into the city and for chores (including sending Ranu Rakapuna, our Easter Island statue home). We headed to a nearby restaurant for dinner and it was wonderful to understand the menu and what was going on around us. Surrounded by groups of families and friends enjoying a Friday night out, I felt a pang of home sickness. Our surroundings felt so familiar, yet we were so far from home!!

Headed into the city and took in the sights, including the Sky Tower (where loonies threw themselves off from 300 meters attached to bungis) and the water front. What a lovely place, busy enough to have a buzz but still relaxed and uncrowded. We enjoyed the sunshine and watched the world and their expensive yachts floating by.

Visited Adam's Great Aunty Pat, and tried to keep track of family news, which includes Adam's five second cousins and their 19 offspring. Aunty Pat invited us to stay for the night and knocked us up a lovely steak dinner. Felt great to be in a real home again.

20th - 21st February, Russell

From Auckland headed 4 hours north to Russell in The Bay of Islands. Russell is a very historic town which includes New Zealand's oldest church and the Duke of Marlborough Hotel, proud possessor of NZ's oldest liquor licence. Lord John Russell wished to establish the town as the country's capital back in the 1840's, however the capital was transferred to Auckland, and the town rapidly declined. From our visit to local museum it seemed like a pretty sordid place during that time, home to drunken sailors, whalers and convicts (think Saturday night in Portsmouth). Russell was burnt to the ground in the late 1800's but today is a most pleasant town of 4 blocks, and no sign of axe-weilding Maori.

The Flagstaff was erected after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi (which was meant to bring peace between the English and the Maori, but by all accounts generally stitched up the Maori) in 1840. The flagstaff symbolised English domination and as such was cut down four times by local Maori.

We took a day long boat trip into the Bay of Islands, had a very brief swim with 2 rather large bottle nose dolphins (Adam and I were quick off the side of the boat and luckily got to them before they raced off in pursuit of more interesting things, a shoal of mackerel). We also spotted a Brydes whale and watched it surfacing for 2o minutes as it circled its dinner.

Above: We stopped off in a beautiful cove and took a steep walk up the hillside and enjoyed the views, before snorkeling in the bay.

Above: From Russell we crossed the width of the country, heading for the Waipoua Kauri Forest. On route we stopped off for a sandy bar-b-que at Hakianga bay. Beautiful and totally unspoilt.

22nd February, Waipoua

Waipoua Forest is the last remnant of the extensive forests that once covered much of the North Island. We joined a twilight encounter tour, where two Maori guides took us through the forest and shared with us their knowledge of the flora, including edible plant life (the circled tips of fern being a staple) and those used for medicinal purposes.

The tour also included prayers, blessings, stories and Maori songs. We reached New Zealand's largest living tree, Tane Mahuta (God of the Forest) at 9pm and under the light of the stars. Tane Mahuta is estimated to be 2,000 years old, is 51 meters high, with the girth of its trunk over 14 meters. It was a great experience, at one with nature and a good introduction to the culture, spirituality and beliefs of the Maori people (even if I did feel a bit giggly at times - very mature!)

After our tour, I thought I should give Adam his own special Maori name for our time in New Zealand. Whatafatti was not amused!

Above: Me hugging a Kauri tree

Above: The second largest tree in New Zealand, also featured in the Lord of the Rings, the animated talking tree.

So what happened to the Kauri trees? British ship builders chopped them down and gum diggers bled them dry. The gum was used for varnish.

23rd February - Waitomo

South to Waitomo, home of black-water rafting.

Fitted out in wetsuit and cavers helmet, we set off on our underground adventure to the caves of Waitomo. During the 2.5 hour trip we floated through glow worm caves in inflatable tubes, swum through icy cold streams, climbed over rocks and through tunnels, admiring stalactite's, stalagmites, limescale curtains, straws, and all things cavey.

Our guide had a series of well rehearsed gags at the ready, which generally involved getting us really relaxed in the pitch dark, and then making us jump out of our skin. At one point we crawled along a 10 meter tunnel on hands and knees in the total darkness. I am not a big fan of caves, so this was particularly hard for me. Apparently, Andy would normally have crawled into the other end of the tunnel and grabbed my hands (funny NOT!) but as he heard me whimper and violently curse, he decided against it. Adam tried to keep up with me but had no chance as I think I broke the cave tunnel crawling world record! Filby completed a number of other squeezes through tight crevasses, which made me breathless just watching him.

I did think we may have to call cave rescue at one point. He was a little bit of a clumsy caver and took several tumbles, including one giant splosh and crunch as he hit an under water rock - owch. I was too busy baby-stepping and clinging on with 3 points of the body at all times to fall anywhere.
Had to have a sleep after caving, too much adrenalin and facing fear for one day!

24th - 25th February - Rotarua

Headed south again to Rotarua

Pitched our tent and headed for town. Phooooooooooaaaawwww, is that you?? No, its the sulphur clouds rising from this volcanic wonderland.

Above: Visited Whakarewarewa (conveniently know as Whaka) Village, which features boiling mud pools, silica terraces, steam vents, geysers and other thermal phenomena.

Above: Our guide, the only Maori gay in the village

After enjoying a corn in the cob cooked in a large thermal pot and a Maori cultural performance, we headed for the Zorb.

Above: Adam rolling down the hillside in his hydro-zorb (giant hamster ball filled with water)

If that was not enough excitement for one day, we drove on to Lake Taupo and jumped on the last Huka Jet boat ride of the day. Quite a thrill I must say as the boat raced along the shallows, barely avoiding tree stumps and black swans, before launching into a series of 360 degree turns. Comedy hairdos at the end of that little excursion I can tell you.

Now, our sixth day of camping at the luxurious Top 10 chain of campsites with very nice facilities. Shame about Tonto the mini tent.

Above: Me cooking up Kiwi stew for dinner, washed down with a posh plastic cup of wine

26th February - Lake Taupo to Wellington

Above: Sadly, did not get the best views of Lake Taupo as the weather was a bit drizzly.

Long drive from Lake Taupo to Wellington, pretty countryside along the way. Sure I spotted a telly tubbie doing its funny dance on the perfectly green hillside.


Made camp on the outskirts (ok then, on an industrial estate) of Wellington. However, we were minutes from a lovely long beach, perfect for an early evening run. The run was badly needed after my new found love, Big Nuts ice cream.

Headed into Wellington and before long found Macs Brewery on the waterfront. Had a great dinner washed down by a Macs Great White beer. Sadly did not have enough time to take in any further attractions in Wellington. Enough time though to get a feel for another lovely sea side city.

27th February - Wellington, North Island to Picton, South Island

All aboard the Interislander ferry to the South Island.


Above: The stunning Malborough Sound as ferry pulls into Picton

Now off on an action packed tour of the South Island, when tomorrow we start our cycle of the Queen Charlotte track!! Will keep you posted.

24th February

7th - 15th February - Papeete, Tahiti

Arrived late on the main island of Tahiti and were immediately ripped off by a very short, very expensive cab ride to the Radisson resort in Arue Bay. Never mind that, our hotel room was gorgeous with a pool and sea view, and we were staying put for a whole week. Lovely, a mini break amidst our maxi break. Just what I needed. I unpacked enthusiastically and searched through rucksack contents for any one item of clothing, let alone an outfit, that belonged in this resort. Umm, no luck. The gypsies had arrived. They probably thought we had nicked a credit card. We spent the majority of time lying by the poolside under the shade of a palm tree or jumping giant surf at the beach.
We took a day trip to neighbouring island, Moorea, which was absolutely beautiful. We hired a Peugeot 106, the smallest car the world, and within half a day had navigated our way around the whole island, visited the scenic view point, swum in a beautiful bay with white sand beaches and had an ice cream. A lovely day out.

We also hired a car on Tahiti and toured around most of the island. Although not nearly as attractive as Moorea, we stopped at a lovely beach along the way. We visited the Gaugin museum and learnt about his travels and time in Tahiti. He was a bit of a lad by all accounts.

We enjoyed our nightly natural spectacular over a cocktail.

Sadly, the Tahitians were not a friendly lot. There was a real edge to the main town of Papeete. However, we did brave it for one evening with new found friends, an Ozzie called Joy and the lovely Kiwis, Paddy and Phil. We went for a luxury meal at the Roulette, or Vans, a gathering of fast food caravans which are apparently typically Tahitian. It was great to spend less than 50 quid on dinner as far as we were concerned and tucked into greasy noodles very enthusiastically. From there we headed to the only open night club in town. What a spectacle - the yellow haired, giant moustached DJ presided over his illuminated, multicoloured dance floor, whilst the boys tried to repel the local ladies of the night. All great entertainment!!

From speaking to local Tahitians, the island is experiencing some real social issues, particularly problems with drugs. Of course, it is all down to the French!!

If we had our time again, we would head out to the Tahitian islands (when not on a budget)rather than spending a week in Tahiti. That said, I did not tire of the sea view from our balcony or the luxury of our hotel room and had a thoroughly relaxing week. An overly expensive, but lovely mini-break!

Facts about Tahiti:-

Modern Tahiti

Tahiti is the largest island of French Polynesia.

Tahitians are French citizens with full civil and political rights. The Tahitian language and the French language are both in use.

Tourism is a significant industry, mostly to the islands of Bora Bora and Moorea.

Black pearl farming is also a substantial source of revenues, most of the pearls being exported to Japan, Europe and the US.

Tahiti History

Tahiti was estimated to have settled by Polynesians between AD 300 and 800 coming from Tonga and Samoa, although some estimates place the date earlier. The fertile island soil combined with fishing provided ample food for the population.

In 1774 Captain James Cook visited the island, and estimated the population at that time to be some 200,000. This was probably too high; another estimate from the same period was 121,500. After Cook's visit, European ships landed on the island with ever greater frequency. The best-known of these ships was HMS Bounty, whose crew mutinied shortly after leaving Tahiti in 1789. The European influence caused significant disruption to the traditional society, by bringing prostitution, venereal diseases, and alcohol to the island. Introduced diseases including typhus and smallpox killed so many Tahitians that by 1797, the island's population was only about 16,000. Later it was to drop as low as 6,000.

In 1842, a European crisis involving Morocco escalated between France and Great Britain when Admiral Dupetit Thouars, acting independently of the French government, was able to convince Tahiti's Queen Pomare IV to accept a French protectorate. George Pritchard, a Birmingham-born missionary and acting British Consul, had been away at the time of the agreement. However he returned to work towards indoctrinating the locals against the Roman Catholic French. In November 1843, Dupetit-Thouars (again completely on his own initiative) landed sailors on the island, formally annexing it to France. He then proceeded to throw Pritchard into prison, subsequently sending him unceremoniously back to Britain.

18th February

CHECK OUT OUR WOBBLY VIDEO CLIPS NOW POSTED ON YOUTUBE!! LINK IN RIGHT MARGIN. MORE TO COME SHORTLY.

3 - 7 February - Easter Island

Wow, Easter Island was beautiful and fascinating. We LOVED our time on the island. The mystery, legends and scenery blew us away.

Easter Island? What, where and how?? From the Easter Island Home Page

Easter Island has long been the subject of curiosity and speculation. How and why did its inhabitants carve and transport the massive statues, which surround the island? What remains of this culture today, and what lessons can we learn from their legacy?

Easter Island is over 2,000 miles from the nearest population center, (Tahiti and Chile), making it one of the most isolated places on Earth. A triangle of volcanic rock in the South Pacific - it is best known for the giant stone monoliths, known as Moai, that dot the coastline. The early settlers called the island "Te Pito O Te Henua" (Navel of The World). Admiral Roggeveen, who came upon the island on Easter Day in 1722, named it Easter Island. Today, the land, people and language are all referred to locally as Rapa Nui.

There has been much controversy and confusion concerning the origins of the Easter Islanders. Thor Heyerdahl proposed that the people who built the statues were of Peruvian descent, due to a similarity between Rapa Nui and Incan stonework. Some have suggested that Easter Island is the remnant of a lost continent, or the result of an extra-terrestrial influence. Archaeological evidence, however, indicates discovery of the island by Polynesians at about 400 AD - led, according to legend, by Hotu Matua. Upon their arrival, an impressive and enigmatic culture began to develop. In addition to the statues, the islanders possessed the Rongorongo script; the only written language in Oceania. The island is also home to many petroglyphs (rock carvings), as well as traditional wood carvings, tapa (barkcloth) crafts, tattooing, string figures, dance and music.

The population of Easter Island reached its peak at perhaps more than 10,000, far exceeding the capabilities of the small island's ecosystem. Resources became scarce, and the once lush palm forests were destroyed - cleared for agriculture and moving the massive stone Moai. In this regard, Easter Island has become, for many, a metaphor for ecological disaster.

Thereafter, a thriving and advanced social order began to decline into bloody civil war and, evidently, cannibalism. Eventually, all of the Moai standing along the coast were torn down by the islanders themselves. All of the statues now erected around the island are the result of recent archaeological efforts.

Contacts with western "civilization" proved even more disastrous for the island population which, through slavery and disease, had decreased to approximately 110 by the turn of the century. Following the annexation by Chile in 1888, however, it has risen to more than 2,000, with other Rapanui living in Chile, Tahiti and North America. Despite a growing Chilean presence, the island's Polynesian identity is still quite strong. Easter Island today, remains one of the most unique places you will ever encounter; an open air museum showcasing a fascinating, but unfortunately lost, culture. The Rapanui are among the friendliest people you will ever meet, and the landscape is truly amazing - with its volcanic craters, lava formations, beaches, brilliant blue water, and archaeological sites.

Above: Open air museums where Moai have been reconstructed

Above: Natural crater lake

Above: The Moai quarry. These are in fact complete statues that have been abandoned in the quarry which are now buried to head height. There are hundreds of moai in various states of completion. The Moais were abandoned if flawed or if they became damaged on their journey to local villages. This was the highlight of our island tours, a fascinating place.

Above: Starting point of the Rapanui 'bird man' competition. Each year, one representative from the island's 6 clans would climb from the cliff tops, swim to nearby islands, hang around the nesting sooty turns awaiting the arrival season's first egg. The finder of the sacred egg would return this to the mainland and his tribe leader would become 'bird man' for one year. This gave him the most powerful status on the island and his tribe also enjoyed special privileges during this time. So, what else was in it for the poor chap that jumped down a cliff, swam shark infested waters and hung around for days waiting for a sooty turn to lay its egg? Well, no less than the best looking virgin on the island. Enough to motivate any man! Adam fancied his chances had he been given the opportunity.

A six hour walk around one third of the island - amazing views and remains of abandoned Rapanui villages scattered across our path.

Finishing the six hour walk in over 80 degrees - phew. I know, I know, I really do have to loose the hat!

What I thought was heat rash, turned out to be over 50 insect bites. A quick trip to the Easter Island Hospital and an anti-histamine jab sorted me out. Ekkk, itchy, itchy, itchy.

We were lucky enough to visit the island during their annual festival to crown the Princess of Rapanui. Every day and evening there were events including tribal dancing, costume displays, musical concerts etc. We spent an afternoon watching the banana sledge competition. Most entertaining. Nuttas with buns of steel!

Above: Adam being interviewed by the Discovery Channel.

Above: View of Hanga Roa, Easter Island's only town

Above: Having spent our final pesos on two last pisco sours we waved South America good bye!

Whilst feeling a little sad that phase one of our travels were over, I reflected on our wonderful three month adventure. After much deliberation, my top 10 favourites of South America are the following:

1st place. The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, Peru
2. Torres Del Paine National Park, Chile
3. Cruise in Chilean Archipelago
4. Easter Island

5. Glacier Trek, Perito Marino, Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina
6. Villarica Volcano Walk, Chile
7. Buenos Aires, Argentina
8. Igassu Falls, Argentina
9. Whale watching and elephant seals, Peninsular Valdes, Argentina
10. Colca Canyon, Peru

16th February

30 January - 3 February - Valparaiso, Concon and Santiago

Above: Views across Valparaiso

After a short flight from Puerto Montt to Santiago, hopped on a bus to Valparaiso. On the 'must see' list of Chile, and having experienced many a sad Chilean town, Valparaiso was most stimulating to the senses. Due to earthquakes and past prosperity, the city is a mix of vibrantly painted slum like houses and colonial buildings.We stayed at a cool bed and breakfast, La Nona, which was located on one of the cities many hills. The high ceilings, artwork and chill out music playing in the loo, gave the place a very nice feel. There are still a number of funicular railways from the early 1900's in operation, helping residents to navigate the steep hillsides.

Above: Enjoying the view and a few long drinks

For two days we wondered around, taking in the views of the harbour and smells of the city, (some of which were quite unpleasant). A perfect place for locating a bar with a sea view and watching the world go by. We joined a harbour tour and whizzed among container and naval ships.

After a couple of hours enjoying the sun on the local beach, we ordered 'curantos' for lunch. Well, I have never seen such a pile of tentacles, suckers and bearded shell fish, mixed with a pork chop and chicken wing for good measure. Felt very queasy and had to have a lie down after my brave attempts of consuming this national treasure!! Just about sums up our Chilean culinary experience. I am sure we must have been missing something.

Visited Neruda's home, the beloved Chilean poet and politician. He was a land lover with an obsession for all things nautical. I particularly liked his bar area, where he mixed his favourite cocktail of brandy, champagne and cointreau. I am sure I could be pretty creative and knock out some poetry after a couple of those.

After two days in the city, we were persuaded to take a horse riding excursion to nearby Concon. We were collected from beneath a petrol station pricing board and taken to a farm, home to 70 horses and 2 wild looking children. We were handed chaps and unskillfully mounted our horses. After best attempts to explain that we were inexperienced, within minutes our bare chested gaucho shouted, GALLOP, GALLOP, GALLOP, and we were off at high speed, with not so much as a riding helmet between us. Poor Filby and his family jewels yet again received another serious pounding. I was then informed, 'we walk or we gallop, nothing between.' This was going to be a long 4 hours!! The daughter of our gaucho was five years old and rode alongside us with maximum confidence, whipping her horse for no good reason. Our gaucho was riding a less domesticated animal and in order to control it, used a flat paddle to whip it around the face with alarming frequency. Something told me this pair would not have passed the 'RSPCA, how to love your horsey' assessment.

Luckily my horse, Ancantialdo, otherwise known as Cliff, was well behaved. Adam's horse, aptly named, Viento, or Wind was a bit on the naughty side. We crossed a beautiful forest before reaching giant sand dunes. We stopped for a gorgeous meat feast bar-b-q before our final walk/gallop along the beach. I didn't know it was possible to get blisters on your bottom, but it is, and I was officially and extremely saddle sore. However, it was well worth it and I will never forget the feeling of galloping along Concon's wide, empty, beach with the wind in my hair. I was both glad and relieved to be alive. Wonderful!!

After nearly one month in Chile, we managed to allow ourselves just one day in the capital city, Santiago. I believe to really understand a place, you should always start in the capital city, so we did it all wrong in Chile. However, I dragged Filby around the colonial museum, forced him to take snaps of the statues of Chile's national heroes and liberators, before we took a terrifying funicular railway to the statue of the virgin, overlooking the sprawling city.

It was hot, hot, hot, but we had a good day and found the city far more pleasant than we had expected. We stayed in a very nice hostel, The Happy House, and had a great evening preparing some Chilean specialities, (ceviche, raw fish marinated with lime, and apple empanadas) with the other residents, washed down by vast quantities of pisco and local wine. Really enjoyed the company of our new best friends and went to bed at 3.30am, which guaranteed us a great, fresh feeling as the alarm went off one hour later for our flight to Easter Island!!

Early Chilean History:

- The conquest of Chile began in 1540 and was carried out by Pedro de Valdivia, who founded the city of Santiago on February 12, 1541. Although the Spanish did not find the extensive gold and silver they sought, they recognized the agricultural potential of Chile's central valley, and Chile became part of the Spanish Empire

- Conquest of the land that is today called Chile took place only gradually, and the Europeans suffered repeated setbacks at the hands of the local population. A massive Mapuche indian insurrection that began in 1553 resulted in Valdivia's death and the destruction of many of the colony's principal settlements. Subsequent major insurrections took place in 1598 and in 1655.

- The drive for independence from Spain was precipitated by usurpation of the Spanish throne by Napoleon's brother Joseph in 1808

- Intermittent warfare continued until 1817, when an army led by Bernardo O'Higgins, Chile's most renowned patriot, and José de San Martín, hero of the Argentine War of Independence, crossed the Andes into Chile and defeated the royalists. On February 12, 1818, Chile was proclaimed an independent republic under O'Higgins' leadership.