30 January - 3 February - Valparaiso, Concon and Santiago
Visited Neruda's home, the beloved Chilean poet and politician. He was a land lover with an obsession for all things nautical. I particularly liked his bar area, where he mixed his favourite cocktail of brandy, champagne and cointreau. I am sure I could be pretty creative and knock out some poetry after a couple of those.
After two days in the city, we were persuaded to take a horse riding excursion to nearby Concon. We were collected from beneath a petrol station pricing board and taken to a farm, home to 70 horses and 2 wild looking children. We were handed chaps and unskillfully mounted our horses. After best attempts to explain that we were inexperienced, within minutes our bare chested gaucho shouted, GALLOP, GALLOP, GALLOP, and we were off at high speed, with not so much as a riding helmet between us. Poor Filby and his family jewels yet again received another serious pounding. I was then informed, 'we walk or we gallop, nothing between.' This was going to be a long 4 hours!! The daughter of our gaucho was five years old and rode alongside us with maximum confidence, whipping her horse for no good reason. Our gaucho was riding a less domesticated animal and in order to control it, used a flat paddle to whip it around the face with alarming frequency. Something told me this pair would not have passed the 'RSPCA, how to love your horsey' assessment.
Luckily my horse, Ancantialdo, otherwise known as Cliff, was well behaved. Adam's horse, aptly named, Viento, or Wind was a bit on the naughty side. We crossed a beautiful forest before reaching giant sand dunes. We stopped for a gorgeous meat feast bar-b-q before our final walk/gallop along the beach. I didn't know it was possible to get blisters on your bottom, but it is, and I was officially and extremely saddle sore. However, it was well worth it and I will never forget the feeling of galloping along Concon's wide, empty, beach with the wind in my hair. I was both glad and relieved to be alive. Wonderful!!
After nearly one month in Chile, we managed to allow ourselves just one day in the capital city, Santiago. I believe to really understand a place, you should always start in the capital city, so we did it all wrong in Chile. However, I dragged Filby around the colonial museum, forced him to take snaps of the statues of Chile's national heroes and liberators, before we took a terrifying funicular railway to the statue of the virgin, overlooking the sprawling city.
Early Chilean History:
Above: Views across Valparaiso
After a short flight from Puerto Montt to Santiago, hopped on a bus to Valparaiso. On the 'must see' list of Chile, and having experienced many a sad Chilean town, Valparaiso was most stimulating to the senses. Due to earthquakes and past prosperity, the city is a mix of vibrantly painted slum like houses and colonial buildings.We stayed at a cool bed and breakfast, La Nona, which was located on one of the cities many hills. The high ceilings, artwork and chill out music playing in the loo, gave the place a very nice feel. There are still a number of funicular railways from the early 1900's in operation, helping residents to navigate the steep hillsides.
Above: Enjoying the view and a few long drinks
For two days we wondered around, taking in the views of the harbour and smells of the city, (some of which were quite unpleasant). A perfect place for locating a bar with a sea view and watching the world go by. We joined a harbour tour and whizzed among container and naval ships.
After a couple of hours enjoying the sun on the local beach, we ordered 'curantos' for lunch. Well, I have never seen such a pile of tentacles, suckers and bearded shell fish, mixed with a pork chop and chicken wing for good measure. Felt very queasy and had to have a lie down after my brave attempts of consuming this national treasure!! Just about sums up our Chilean culinary experience. I am sure we must have been missing something.
Visited Neruda's home, the beloved Chilean poet and politician. He was a land lover with an obsession for all things nautical. I particularly liked his bar area, where he mixed his favourite cocktail of brandy, champagne and cointreau. I am sure I could be pretty creative and knock out some poetry after a couple of those.After two days in the city, we were persuaded to take a horse riding excursion to nearby Concon. We were collected from beneath a petrol station pricing board and taken to a farm, home to 70 horses and 2 wild looking children. We were handed chaps and unskillfully mounted our horses. After best attempts to explain that we were inexperienced, within minutes our bare chested gaucho shouted, GALLOP, GALLOP, GALLOP, and we were off at high speed, with not so much as a riding helmet between us. Poor Filby and his family jewels yet again received another serious pounding. I was then informed, 'we walk or we gallop, nothing between.' This was going to be a long 4 hours!! The daughter of our gaucho was five years old and rode alongside us with maximum confidence, whipping her horse for no good reason. Our gaucho was riding a less domesticated animal and in order to control it, used a flat paddle to whip it around the face with alarming frequency. Something told me this pair would not have passed the 'RSPCA, how to love your horsey' assessment.
Luckily my horse, Ancantialdo, otherwise known as Cliff, was well behaved. Adam's horse, aptly named, Viento, or Wind was a bit on the naughty side. We crossed a beautiful forest before reaching giant sand dunes. We stopped for a gorgeous meat feast bar-b-q before our final walk/gallop along the beach. I didn't know it was possible to get blisters on your bottom, but it is, and I was officially and extremely saddle sore. However, it was well worth it and I will never forget the feeling of galloping along Concon's wide, empty, beach with the wind in my hair. I was both glad and relieved to be alive. Wonderful!!After nearly one month in Chile, we managed to allow ourselves just one day in the capital city, Santiago. I believe to really understand a place, you should always start in the capital city, so we did it all wrong in Chile. However, I dragged Filby around the colonial museum, forced him to take snaps of the statues of Chile's national heroes and liberators, before we took a terrifying funicular railway to the statue of the virgin, overlooking the sprawling city.It was hot, hot, hot, but we had a good day and found the city far more pleasant than we had expected. We stayed in a very nice hostel, The Happy House, and had a great evening preparing some Chilean specialities, (ceviche, raw fish marinated with lime, and apple empanadas) with the other residents, washed down by vast quantities of pisco and local wine. Really enjoyed the company of our new best friends and went to bed at 3.30am, which guaranteed us a great, fresh feeling as the alarm went off one hour later for our flight to Easter Island!!
Early Chilean History:
- The conquest of Chile began in 1540 and was carried out by Pedro de Valdivia, who founded the city of Santiago on February 12, 1541. Although the Spanish did not find the extensive gold and silver they sought, they recognized the agricultural potential of Chile's central valley, and Chile became part of the Spanish Empire
- Conquest of the land that is today called Chile took place only gradually, and the Europeans suffered repeated setbacks at the hands of the local population. A massive Mapuche indian insurrection that began in 1553 resulted in Valdivia's death and the destruction of many of the colony's principal settlements. Subsequent major insurrections took place in 1598 and in 1655.
- The drive for independence from Spain was precipitated by usurpation of the Spanish throne by Napoleon's brother Joseph in 1808
- Intermittent warfare continued until 1817, when an army led by Bernardo O'Higgins, Chile's most renowned patriot, and José de San Martín, hero of the Argentine War of Independence, crossed the Andes into Chile and defeated the royalists. On February 12, 1818, Chile was proclaimed an independent republic under O'Higgins' leadership.
- Conquest of the land that is today called Chile took place only gradually, and the Europeans suffered repeated setbacks at the hands of the local population. A massive Mapuche indian insurrection that began in 1553 resulted in Valdivia's death and the destruction of many of the colony's principal settlements. Subsequent major insurrections took place in 1598 and in 1655.
- The drive for independence from Spain was precipitated by usurpation of the Spanish throne by Napoleon's brother Joseph in 1808
- Intermittent warfare continued until 1817, when an army led by Bernardo O'Higgins, Chile's most renowned patriot, and José de San Martín, hero of the Argentine War of Independence, crossed the Andes into Chile and defeated the royalists. On February 12, 1818, Chile was proclaimed an independent republic under O'Higgins' leadership.
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