21st January

13 - 21 Janary - Cohaique and The Carretera Austral

Arrived at Balmaceda Airport, 1,000km north of Punta Arenas - horay. Slight hitch at Hertz desk and our lack of Spanish in this less touristy location caused first of many recent miscommunications. We were torn between spending more time trying to discuss the car hire rate in Spanish, or catching the one bus which left the airport for the only town within 50kms of the airport, Cohaique. We opted for the bus, and two days later when we eventually picked up our car, discovered what we thought was an inflated hire rate, was in fact the excess charge. Dooh.

Above: View of Cohaique

On the bus from Balmaceda airport to Cohaique and felt a surge of pure happiness. The scenery was stunning and soon we would be heading into the countryside in our hire car, unsure of what awaited us. The sun was shining and the temperature a gorgeous 70+ degrees, with no biting glacier wind. Yippeee.

Arrived in Cohaique and discovered our pre-booked cabina was a little out of town. Found the place full of stinking, Dutch hippies, dumped our bags and headed back into Cohaique on foot, in search of food. Adam is now keen on sampling the restaurants listed in the South America Handbook, featuring the one fork symbol, ie. cheapest possible option. So we headed for the fire station, walked past fire engines and the fireman´s mess and there a grubby cafe awaited us. We ordered chicken and chips and it was delicious (and cheap). Unbeknown to us, this would be one of three hot meals we would have in the next week, all of which would be chicken and chips. So much for the wholesome hot bean casseroles I was promised and Adam dreaded.

Early observations - Chile

Chileans have a keen obsession with music from the 80's. "Oh Micky" can be heard blasting from doorways. Communards currently playing in internet cafe, "Tell me why, ahhhhhhhhhh" - classic. Other popular artists include Phil Collins, Rick Asterly, The Cranberries and Bryan Adams.

Chilean women sport very large bellies and they are not shy to have them wobbling in full view, or straining under elasticated lace.

Housewives in Chile are evil. They unashamedly elbow poor innocent tourists out of supermarket queues, particularly when in search of fresh bread.

We have received a mixed reception from the Chileans. Comparatively, there was a much greater warmth from people in Peru and Argentina, which has surprised us.

It is very hard to get a decent cup of coffee in Chile but the ice cream is great.

Strong family culture, where Sundays are spent together, sitting in the plazas and enjoying ice cream, candy floss and family entertainment. Adam would say there is nothing better to do.

The catholic religion has not penetrated Chile to the same extent as in Peru and Argentina. A mix of christian-based faiths are represented, must be something to do with the German settlers, must explore this one further.

You can buy a decent bottle of pinot noir in the supermarket for £3.

About Cohaique and the Carretera Austral

Cohaique is situated half way down the Carretera Austral, or Southern Highway. This area was inaccessible until recently (except by boat) and the Southern Highway now extends from Peurto Montt to Villa O´Higgins. This spectacular, virgin landscape is described as "absurdly beautiful" which we experienced for ourselves during our week long road trip.

We spent Sunday hiking at a very pretty national reserve on the outskirts of Cohaique. However, we soon discovered an unpleasant issue with this neck of the woods. The Lake District is infested with horse flies, dirty, horrible, biting evil creatures. Adam has been on a one man mission to eradicate the species, daring them to land on him. Such a shame! They are around for December and January only, so our timing is not perfect. However, we enjoyed the hike in the sunshine, whilst swatting and swearing.

Above: Araucaria or Monkey Puzzle Tree

The monkey puzzle tree is indigenous to Chile, in fact further north of here, there are rare forests full of them. Associated in my mind with English suburbia, the pines produce a good timber and were felled to near extinction. It is now illegal to chop down a monkey puzzle tree in Chile.

I have to confess, before arriving in Chile my knowledge was limited. I knew that Chile was a very long and skinny country, separated from Argentina by the Andes, that they produce a decent bottle of red and their former dictator recently popped it.

Pinochet, the self-appointed president, came into power in 1974 - 1990. The military government he represented over threw a democratically elected left wing government. At the time of his death in 2006, around 300 criminal charges in Chile were still pending against Pinochet for human rights abuses and embezzlement during his rule. Pinochet remains a polarizing figure in many parts of the world, dividing people who condemn him for human rights abuses and for taking power from a democratically elected government, from those who credit him with stabilizing Chile and preventing a Communist takeover.

More facts on Chile to follow.

Day one of road trip:-

(AM) Collected Toyota Yaris from Hertz, prompted named "Tinto". Purchased 2 man tent, "Tonto", sleeping mats, bread, water, empanadas (pasties) and wet wipes.

Above: Views of Lago General Carrera from road

Travelled 100+ kilometers on gorgeous road to Villa Cerro Castillo where stone chippings and dirt replaced the smooth tarmac. Oh dear, no wonder Hertz recommended 4x4. Reached Lago General Carrera (2nd largest lake in South America, or is it 3rd or even 4th - really depends which tourist literature you read, Chilean or Argentinian). Found idillic campsite on lakeside, Adam made a fire and we drank beer watching the sun go down. I spent the night throwing up my empanada, but one bonus was admiring the brightest, star-filled sky I had ever seen, in between vomits.

Above: View from our tent

Day two

Slowly snaked our way around the lakeside to Chile Chico. Found another stunning campsite. Had very cold but welcome shower and enjoyed our cheese and cracker dinner on the lakeside. I thought I spotted a puma when returning from toilets. Filby didnt believe me but I saw him quietly unsheath his leatherman blade.

Above: Campsite at Bahia Jara

Day three

Drove to most southerly point of this trip, Cochrane. In attempt to find a camp site entered a near by national park and nearly ended Tinto´s young life as we bottomed out on several large boulders. Ekkkkk. After hours in search of campsite, came back into town, took left fork, rather than the right, and found campsite after 2km. Ohhpsie. Didn't like the look of menacing cockerels that were lurking around our tent. I felt an early morning call coming on.

Day four

Went for a badly needed hike in the Tamango reserve, close to our camp site. Walked for a couple of hours on beautiful lakeside paths. Enjoyed the sun and crystal clear lake water. Drove to Rio Baker, apparent fly fishing paradise, to the comfort of a shiny new log cabina. Ohh, soft bed, cable TV and a hot shower. Luxury. Learnt about high winds in UK and Germany, and of Jade Goody´s storm in a teacup. Felt ashamed that was the best the UK could contribute to CNN´s international news roundup.

Spent the evening fly fishing with Dennis, the lovely man who managed the cabinas. Filby and I were utterly useless. Trout taunted us by back flipping mid stream, whilst we unhooked our flies from the river bank and generally frustrated the hell out of Dennis. Filby had trouble with the backwards rod motion and hooked the shore, whilst I keep plummeting my fly deep underwater, causing Denis to retrieve it and blow it dry AGAIN. Dennis got very creative as he became desperate for us to catch a trutcha.

He showed me a new technique which involved letting my fly drift into rapids. He caught a fish during the demonstration. I had no luck using this technique for the next hour. It was a most pleasant experience as the sun set over the Andes and the Rio Baker rushed by, and if I am honest, I didn't really have my heart in catching a fish anyway. Was more frustrated that I couldn't master the technique. Plenty more fish in the river and all that. We thanked Dennis and he walked off shaking his head, muttering, "very funny".

Adam woke me up at midnight to look at the star filled sky. Another romantic moment ruined as two horses galloped from behind the cabin and scared the life out of us.

Day five

Tinto had developed a big problem. Every time we headed up hill, a very loud and disturbing clunking noise vibrated from under the drivers seat, the kind of noise that for some reason makes you clench your bum.

Above: Me and Tonto in Tranquillo

Above: Capilla Del Marmol

Headed back to Tranquillo and our original campsite. Visited the Capilla Del Marmol by boat, strange rock marble-like formations just off the lake shore. That evening, walked into the village and to the one eatery in town. Asked for a menu, obviously a strange request in these parts. We were informed dinner would be with us in half an hour. Heard lots of frying noises from the kitchen, and you guessed it, chicken and chips. By this time I was glad of something other than a cheese sandwich which had been all we could procure from very rural corner shops for several days.

Made a campfire on the beach and had stone throwing competitions until sunset. Very relaxing.

Day six
Above: Burnt forest

Traveled the Carretera Austral 180km back to Cohaique and soaked up the beauty. Felt very relieved to reach tarmac once again and could at least unclench my bum for the last 100 kms of our 1,100km road trip.

Above: Tinto overlooking Villa Cerro Castillo on return journey to Cohaique

Day seven

Arrived at Balmaceda Airport, 3 hours before flight. A Filby record. The airport was shut. Hertz ripped us off with hidden charges (AS EVER), but couldn't really complain as we suspected that we had ruined Tinto´s exhaust, gear box, clutch, or perhaps a combition of all above! Heading north again now to Peurto Montt, at the top of the Carretera Austral. Not sure if we are going to head north or south on arrival. One thing is for sure, we will not be doing any off-roading in Tinto 2. We have also learnt that you can avoid horse flies by wearing light clothing. I assume that is because you don't look like a horse if dressed in beige, will be worth a go. More camping adventures to follow shortly.