Views from Japan, 17th - 27th May

Above: Japanese Snow Monkeys at Yudanaka, playing on the mountainside and having a dip in the hot natural springs

Above: Staying in Yudanaka ryokan, with 'natural' onsen and traditional dinner, which included delicious vegetable tempura, whole salted fish (with teeth) and grasshoppers. Adam ate my grasshoppers, but even he was defeated by the fish head, which our neighbouring diners downed in one. We did however get a round of applause when Adam ordered our second bottle of sake.

Above: Fantastic walk in Japan Alps National Park. Were not expecting the snow, snake or the ladders, but all added to the adventure. Due to a little difficulty following the Japanese signs (umm, makes a change), we were hiking for two hours before we got on the correct path. Spotted snow monkeys.

Above: Visit to the laid back Takayama with streets lined with traditional craft shops. Visited old government offices, where the Shogun's rice taxes were collected and managed. Every government office needs a torture chamber and the above had an impressive range of apparatus. Kneel on the block on left whilst stone weights are piled on top of you. Owwch.

Above: Visit to Beppu sex museum. Always knew ginormous boobs would suit me!

Above: My attempted arty shot of Adam writing his memoirs, wearing traditional hakata, Japanese bath gown.

Above: Fabulous Himeji Castle, built in the mid 16th century, one of the few in Japan in its original wooden and plaster state. Looks quite a pretty place until you get up close and see the oil pouring walls, stone throwing holes, weaponry racks etc.

Above: In the top 3 list of Japanese gardens, Korakuen in Okayama. The garden was built in Kaiyu (scenic promenade) style, which presents visitors with a new view at every turn. Tea houses are located throughout the garden, each built by reigning Daimyo (feudal lord) during the Edo period.

Above: Tswano, a real highlight of the trip. This beautiful town retains many traditional wooden houses. We took a wander around the castle ruins, enjoying views over the town and then went in search of carp. Not difficult to find as there are 65,000 carp living in Tswano river and the canal systems that line the old samurai quarter. The carp were released in case the mountain town came under siege, and they did rather well.

Above: Aso-san volcano walk. Took shelter in volcano bunker for lunch and were nearly blown off of our feet at the summit. Safety first from Filby and walk over mountain pass was abandoned due to conditions.

Above: Kumamoto Castle

Hiroshima 14th - 16th May

Arrived in Hiroshima on a smashing bullet train. They really are cool, in a train spotting kind of way. One downside is the cost. About 50 pounds each for the one and half hour journey.

Hiroshima immediately felt like a pleasant and laid back city. The main purpose of our visit was to see Peace Memorial Park and the Peace Museum.

The experience was educational and emotionally overwhelming. The world's first atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima on the 6th August, 1945, and flattened the city, initially killing over 80,000 people, followed by a further 60,000 deaths caused by burns and radiation poisoning.

The Peace Museum gives a comprehensive run up to the events that proceeded the bomb attack, its purpose is as an agent for worldwide peace. Throughout the Peace Park there are memorials for the victims, a Flame of Hope, which will be extinguished when all nuclear weapons are removed from the earth, a Children's Memorial, where children today leave thousands of origami cranes, a symbol of longevity and hope in the Japanese culture.

Above: The A-Bomb Dome serves as an eternal reminder of the tragedy. The bomb exploded directly above the Industrial Promotion Hall. It was not flattened, unlike all other buildings for miles around.

Hiroshima was inundated with school kids all of whom had been tasked with practising their English with any passing foreigner. We signed hundreds of school books, attempted to create origami cranes, had photos taken by the dozen. We had a small taste of what it would feel like to be famous! It's not for me. Found ourselves hiding in the hedgerows to avoid the attention after a while.

Close to Hiroshima is one of Japan's most photographed sites, the floating 'tori' or Shinto Shrine gate, at Itsukushima Shrine. The Shrine's pier like construction was the result of the islands holy status. Commoners were not able to set foot on the island and had to the approach the Shrine by boat, entering through the floating 'tori'. Today they do let the commoners on the island, so we took the short hop ferry ride and added another 100 or so photos to our collection of snaps from Japan!



Above: Floating Shinto gate at Itsukushima Shrine

Something to be exported from Hiroshima, Okonomiyaki - egg-based savory pancakes filled with noodles and fried egg. Absolutely delicious!! Only a million calories in every bite.

Koyasan, 13th - 14th May

We reached Koyasan via traditional train and near-vertical funicular railway. The journey itself was very pleasant climbing over 1,000 meters into the mountains.

We arrived at our temple lodgings, at Eiko-in and were greeted warmly by the young monks. Our room was a traditional ryokan style, matted floors, sliding panel doors and not a lot else. We had a lovely view over the stunning temple garden. Felt a bit bad about the monk's electricity bill, but get that heater on. Brrrrrrrrrrr!

Above: Views of our temple lodge, Eiko-in

After the monks had carried our rucksacks to our rooms with embarrassing ease, we went in search of the tomb of Kobo Daishi, the monk who first brought Shingon (True Word) Buddhism to Japan from China in 806. Kobo Daishi started the religious retreat of Koyasan which attracted a great following, at one time there were over 1,500 monasteries and today there are 110 remaining temples and a population of 7,000. The historic, spiritual and natural setting of Koyasan create a very unique and calming atmosphere.

Kobo Daishi started his eternal meditation in 821 (awaiting the arrival of the future Buddha), and the cemetery that houses his tomb is very impressive, with over half a million graves. Many Japanese leave hair or ashes of their dead relatives close to the Kobo Daishi's tomb, handy for his reawakening.

Above: Views from Okunoin, Temple and cemetery. Buddhist followers wet the guardian deities, a blessing for the mass of the dead.

We returned to the temple lodgings in time for our 5.30pm dinner. Our dinner had been prepared beautifully by the monks and included tofu in many forms. Tofu creation is a real labour of love, an extract of soy milk, and the monks have been following the same methods for their tofu creation for over 1,000 years. Ohhhh, but it just isn't that easy to eat when presented in a cold slab. We ate almost everything, delicious noodles, soup, veggie tempura, pickles etc. I just felt so bad leaving a good portion of that tofu slab untouched.

Headed for a bath, again typical ryokan style. Shower facilities for proper full-on soaping, followed by onsen hot bath. As I entered the bathroom I thought to myself, well, that is a bit of a flimsy see-through curtain between me and the corridor. I had no choice but to get stripped off, as was going about my business when the sliding door behind me closed. Whoops, hadn't noticed that, and had just revealed my full nakedness to a monk!!!! Adam said that he would probably have to kill himself. I didn't think I looked that bad starkers! How embarrassing!

The following morning we rose early to attend two Buddhist services, the 6.30am service involved traditional chanting and at 7am, the fire service, during which a monk built a purifying fire, with the aid of tinder, oils and incense.

Views from Koyasan

Above: Konpondaito Pagoda

Above: Daimon, mammoth gate stands as main entrance to Koyasan

Above: Kongobuji Temple, the main temple of Shingon Buddhism, built by warlord Hideyoshi Toyotomi for the mass of his mother when she passed away. Largest rock garden in Japan. Dry rock gardens are representations of natural world, with raked sand = sea and rocks, often moutains, boats etc., or in this case, two large dragons.

Osaka - 12th May

The journey from Nara to Osaka was fairly painless and although we can find our way to bus stops or train stations near to our accommodation, the final step, ie. finding street, is always a bit tricky. We jumped in a cab at Osaka station and the taxi driver giggled as we gave him the details. Now some may think I am a little naive considering the we were looking for Hotel Kinki, but I was horrified to see the large neon sign advertising room rates 'by the hour' as we pulled up outside the dark alley that housed our hotel.

I had booked us into a Japanese 'love' hotel in Osaka's red light district. The receptionist handed us tissues on arrival. Ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. No way. Was only one solution. A big night out in Osaka to numb the seediness. I slept on my travel towel and draped Adams coat over the head board. No loving at the love hotel for Mr Filby, who was rather chuffed with our cut price accommodation.

Above: Osaka entertainment district, Dotom-bori. We hired a karaoke booth to round off the evening. Thank goodness for sound proofing.

Above: Afternoon at Osaka Aquarium and ride on the big wheel. The longest suspension bridge in the world (apparently) can be seen in the views over Osaka.

Nara - 10th - 11th May

We have now visited Japan's current capital, it's previous capital, and now Japan's first capital city, Nara. There are a number of fantastic historical sights around the Nara-Koen area.

Above: Isui-en Garden. It was difficult to tear ourselves away from this stunning garden.

Above: Scenes from Todai-ji temple. Largest wooden building in the world, home to Japan's largest bronze Buddha. The sitting Deity above is said to help heal wounds. Rub the statue in the area of your ailment, rub your respective body part and you will be cured. I must say, my knees are feeling much better! The lady in the top photo is testing her path to enlightenment. It is said that if you can pass through this hole cut in the temple's pillar (which is the same size as the bronze Buddha's nostril), you are ensured enlightenment.

Above: Terrapins galore

Above: Adam feeding the deer rice cakes at Nara-Koen. The deer are designated national treasures. Not in my book, as one aggressive blighter bit a hole in my sightseeing map.