29th January

21st - 29th January - Northern Lake District, Chile

22 - 23 January, Puerto Montt
Arrived in the city of Puerto Montt, disgusted at the site of first McDonalds spotted in Chile. Ordered a McChicken sandwich and Big Mac meal. Other than that, little of note. Busy port town on Pacific lacking glamor or charm, with plenty of drunken sailors peeing in doorways.


24 - 25 January, Cucao, Island of Chiloe
Chiloe Island is 55km from mainland Chile, and was strongly influenced by early Spanish settlers and Mapuche Indians. Mapuche natives are famed for strongly fought battles against Spanish colonisation. The uprising of the Mapuche around 1598 drove the Spanish south on the mainland and left the Spanish community on Chiloe isolated. The Chiloe islanders were the last supporters of the Spanish Crown in South America. When Chile rebelled, the last of the Spanish governors fled to the island and in despair, offered it to Britain. Britain declined and finally the island surrendered in 1826.




Above: 15km of empty beach at Cucao and stilted homes in Chiloe´s capital, Castro

Chiloe, Island of Gulls, is famed for its wooden architecture; churches and homes on stilts. We spent two nights on the island, with our second day on the west coast admiring the Pacific rollers and vast empty beaches. Although tourism is important for Chiloe´s economy, the island exports salmon, seaweed (muchos stink) and timber to the mainland.


Above: Campsite view at Cucao, Chiloe. Discovered new military breed of horse fly, with armoured shell and red wing tips.

25 - 26 January, Puerto Varas and Frutilla, Lago Llanquihue
From Chiloe, headed north on a lovely straight tarmac road to Lago Llanquihue. The northern lake district is by far the most popular tourist destination in Chile, and we felt a little overwhelmed to be surrounded by such an extensive, expensive tourist infrastructure.


Went with it and booked into smart hotel over looking lake and Osorno volcano.


Above: Kayaking on lake and view of Osorno Volcano

Ventured further north along the lake for our second evening and camped at a fantastic site in Frutilla, a stunning little town. As days of the week are of no consequence to us, it had not occurred to us that it was Friday, and the campsite soon lost its tranquility as groups of party people arrived for the weekend.

As I eventually drifted off to sleep at 1.30am, the ravers (as in dance tunes blaring) on our left, were still competing with the group singing Chilean folk songs accompanied by multiple guitars, on our right. The bar-b-q´s were still aflame. Yet again I regretted our lack of Spanish. Would have been a great place to crash a party.


27 - 28 January, Frutilla to Pucon

Travelled 300kms north to Pucon on Lago Villarrica. Pucon sits in the shadow of Villarrica Volcano. There is a clear Germanic inflence in the northern lakes. German emigration to Chile started at the time of the Crimean War, in 1855, when wealthy families emigrated to avoid enlistment in the war. Geographers and natural historians sent recommendations to Germany as they identified the northern lakes as a "place of natural, pure beauty which would allow settlers to grow and move freely." Germans brought money into the country and developed many towns between 1850´s to 1880´s.

Above: Villarrica Volcano

We cycled to waterfalls 15km from Pucon, me on a giant Niek van Bemmel size bike (6ft5 Dutch friend). The surface was a little on the rocky side and I was so glad to arrive at the falls, and spot a sign advertising fresh strudel. A near perfect tea and cake moment (sunshine, sitting alongside falls, perfect view of Osorno volcano) was ruined by the long black hair that I pulled from the middle of my chocolate banana cake. I felt exhausted, thoroughly bone-shaken and more than a little saddle sore after the 30km cycle. No worries, only climbing a 2,000 meter volcano in the morning - ahhhh.

Our day started early, awaking under canvas at 5.30am. We joined our fellow hikers at the "expedition" office where two very slim, attractive, young Americans arrived in flip flops. Although the snow capped volcano can be seen from every corner of Pucon, it did not occur to them that they may require hiking boots, or that we would be hiking in snow to reach the summit. I was clearly delighted with their dimness whilst remaining extremely jealous of their bottoms. We set off to ski lifts and took a chair to the snow line of the volcano. We climbed for four hours like penguins shuffling in line, using upturned ice picks to keep us anchored to the mountain.
Above: Peering into the crater

Arrived at the summit and immediately coughed up a lung due to clouds of sulphurous smoke. A party that arrived shortly after us adorned gas masks. They must have been on a higher end tour. We peaked over the crater edge as the volcano bubbled and cracked. No danger whatsoever in this practice according to the seismic traffic light system on the tourist information office, which showed the volcano as being green light, "low risk", to those that fancied peering into the crater. Last major eruption was in 1971. I am sure my parents think of 1971 as the year of their last major disruption.

Above: We made it! Filby´s helmet was a little on the small side

I really enjoyed the upwards hike, but that was nothing compared to our descent. We pulled on big gortex nappies and slid down the mountain in snow flumes, controlling our speed with ice axes which we used as brakes. It was fantastic fun. I started very tentatively with legs out straight applying axe break for the entire flume. By the last flume, legs ups, no axe applied I piled into Filby, who had actually shot out of the flume as was in a heap. I laughed all the way down like a little kid. The American girls were terrified during the ascent, but enjoyed the flumes, with slightly more control and finesse than myself, and they were in fact very nice!

29 January - Back in Puerto Montt

Off to Santiago in the morning!

21st January

13 - 21 Janary - Cohaique and The Carretera Austral

Arrived at Balmaceda Airport, 1,000km north of Punta Arenas - horay. Slight hitch at Hertz desk and our lack of Spanish in this less touristy location caused first of many recent miscommunications. We were torn between spending more time trying to discuss the car hire rate in Spanish, or catching the one bus which left the airport for the only town within 50kms of the airport, Cohaique. We opted for the bus, and two days later when we eventually picked up our car, discovered what we thought was an inflated hire rate, was in fact the excess charge. Dooh.

Above: View of Cohaique

On the bus from Balmaceda airport to Cohaique and felt a surge of pure happiness. The scenery was stunning and soon we would be heading into the countryside in our hire car, unsure of what awaited us. The sun was shining and the temperature a gorgeous 70+ degrees, with no biting glacier wind. Yippeee.

Arrived in Cohaique and discovered our pre-booked cabina was a little out of town. Found the place full of stinking, Dutch hippies, dumped our bags and headed back into Cohaique on foot, in search of food. Adam is now keen on sampling the restaurants listed in the South America Handbook, featuring the one fork symbol, ie. cheapest possible option. So we headed for the fire station, walked past fire engines and the fireman´s mess and there a grubby cafe awaited us. We ordered chicken and chips and it was delicious (and cheap). Unbeknown to us, this would be one of three hot meals we would have in the next week, all of which would be chicken and chips. So much for the wholesome hot bean casseroles I was promised and Adam dreaded.

Early observations - Chile

Chileans have a keen obsession with music from the 80's. "Oh Micky" can be heard blasting from doorways. Communards currently playing in internet cafe, "Tell me why, ahhhhhhhhhh" - classic. Other popular artists include Phil Collins, Rick Asterly, The Cranberries and Bryan Adams.

Chilean women sport very large bellies and they are not shy to have them wobbling in full view, or straining under elasticated lace.

Housewives in Chile are evil. They unashamedly elbow poor innocent tourists out of supermarket queues, particularly when in search of fresh bread.

We have received a mixed reception from the Chileans. Comparatively, there was a much greater warmth from people in Peru and Argentina, which has surprised us.

It is very hard to get a decent cup of coffee in Chile but the ice cream is great.

Strong family culture, where Sundays are spent together, sitting in the plazas and enjoying ice cream, candy floss and family entertainment. Adam would say there is nothing better to do.

The catholic religion has not penetrated Chile to the same extent as in Peru and Argentina. A mix of christian-based faiths are represented, must be something to do with the German settlers, must explore this one further.

You can buy a decent bottle of pinot noir in the supermarket for £3.

About Cohaique and the Carretera Austral

Cohaique is situated half way down the Carretera Austral, or Southern Highway. This area was inaccessible until recently (except by boat) and the Southern Highway now extends from Peurto Montt to Villa O´Higgins. This spectacular, virgin landscape is described as "absurdly beautiful" which we experienced for ourselves during our week long road trip.

We spent Sunday hiking at a very pretty national reserve on the outskirts of Cohaique. However, we soon discovered an unpleasant issue with this neck of the woods. The Lake District is infested with horse flies, dirty, horrible, biting evil creatures. Adam has been on a one man mission to eradicate the species, daring them to land on him. Such a shame! They are around for December and January only, so our timing is not perfect. However, we enjoyed the hike in the sunshine, whilst swatting and swearing.

Above: Araucaria or Monkey Puzzle Tree

The monkey puzzle tree is indigenous to Chile, in fact further north of here, there are rare forests full of them. Associated in my mind with English suburbia, the pines produce a good timber and were felled to near extinction. It is now illegal to chop down a monkey puzzle tree in Chile.

I have to confess, before arriving in Chile my knowledge was limited. I knew that Chile was a very long and skinny country, separated from Argentina by the Andes, that they produce a decent bottle of red and their former dictator recently popped it.

Pinochet, the self-appointed president, came into power in 1974 - 1990. The military government he represented over threw a democratically elected left wing government. At the time of his death in 2006, around 300 criminal charges in Chile were still pending against Pinochet for human rights abuses and embezzlement during his rule. Pinochet remains a polarizing figure in many parts of the world, dividing people who condemn him for human rights abuses and for taking power from a democratically elected government, from those who credit him with stabilizing Chile and preventing a Communist takeover.

More facts on Chile to follow.

Day one of road trip:-

(AM) Collected Toyota Yaris from Hertz, prompted named "Tinto". Purchased 2 man tent, "Tonto", sleeping mats, bread, water, empanadas (pasties) and wet wipes.

Above: Views of Lago General Carrera from road

Travelled 100+ kilometers on gorgeous road to Villa Cerro Castillo where stone chippings and dirt replaced the smooth tarmac. Oh dear, no wonder Hertz recommended 4x4. Reached Lago General Carrera (2nd largest lake in South America, or is it 3rd or even 4th - really depends which tourist literature you read, Chilean or Argentinian). Found idillic campsite on lakeside, Adam made a fire and we drank beer watching the sun go down. I spent the night throwing up my empanada, but one bonus was admiring the brightest, star-filled sky I had ever seen, in between vomits.

Above: View from our tent

Day two

Slowly snaked our way around the lakeside to Chile Chico. Found another stunning campsite. Had very cold but welcome shower and enjoyed our cheese and cracker dinner on the lakeside. I thought I spotted a puma when returning from toilets. Filby didnt believe me but I saw him quietly unsheath his leatherman blade.

Above: Campsite at Bahia Jara

Day three

Drove to most southerly point of this trip, Cochrane. In attempt to find a camp site entered a near by national park and nearly ended Tinto´s young life as we bottomed out on several large boulders. Ekkkkk. After hours in search of campsite, came back into town, took left fork, rather than the right, and found campsite after 2km. Ohhpsie. Didn't like the look of menacing cockerels that were lurking around our tent. I felt an early morning call coming on.

Day four

Went for a badly needed hike in the Tamango reserve, close to our camp site. Walked for a couple of hours on beautiful lakeside paths. Enjoyed the sun and crystal clear lake water. Drove to Rio Baker, apparent fly fishing paradise, to the comfort of a shiny new log cabina. Ohh, soft bed, cable TV and a hot shower. Luxury. Learnt about high winds in UK and Germany, and of Jade Goody´s storm in a teacup. Felt ashamed that was the best the UK could contribute to CNN´s international news roundup.

Spent the evening fly fishing with Dennis, the lovely man who managed the cabinas. Filby and I were utterly useless. Trout taunted us by back flipping mid stream, whilst we unhooked our flies from the river bank and generally frustrated the hell out of Dennis. Filby had trouble with the backwards rod motion and hooked the shore, whilst I keep plummeting my fly deep underwater, causing Denis to retrieve it and blow it dry AGAIN. Dennis got very creative as he became desperate for us to catch a trutcha.

He showed me a new technique which involved letting my fly drift into rapids. He caught a fish during the demonstration. I had no luck using this technique for the next hour. It was a most pleasant experience as the sun set over the Andes and the Rio Baker rushed by, and if I am honest, I didn't really have my heart in catching a fish anyway. Was more frustrated that I couldn't master the technique. Plenty more fish in the river and all that. We thanked Dennis and he walked off shaking his head, muttering, "very funny".

Adam woke me up at midnight to look at the star filled sky. Another romantic moment ruined as two horses galloped from behind the cabin and scared the life out of us.

Day five

Tinto had developed a big problem. Every time we headed up hill, a very loud and disturbing clunking noise vibrated from under the drivers seat, the kind of noise that for some reason makes you clench your bum.

Above: Me and Tonto in Tranquillo

Above: Capilla Del Marmol

Headed back to Tranquillo and our original campsite. Visited the Capilla Del Marmol by boat, strange rock marble-like formations just off the lake shore. That evening, walked into the village and to the one eatery in town. Asked for a menu, obviously a strange request in these parts. We were informed dinner would be with us in half an hour. Heard lots of frying noises from the kitchen, and you guessed it, chicken and chips. By this time I was glad of something other than a cheese sandwich which had been all we could procure from very rural corner shops for several days.

Made a campfire on the beach and had stone throwing competitions until sunset. Very relaxing.

Day six
Above: Burnt forest

Traveled the Carretera Austral 180km back to Cohaique and soaked up the beauty. Felt very relieved to reach tarmac once again and could at least unclench my bum for the last 100 kms of our 1,100km road trip.

Above: Tinto overlooking Villa Cerro Castillo on return journey to Cohaique

Day seven

Arrived at Balmaceda Airport, 3 hours before flight. A Filby record. The airport was shut. Hertz ripped us off with hidden charges (AS EVER), but couldn't really complain as we suspected that we had ruined Tinto´s exhaust, gear box, clutch, or perhaps a combition of all above! Heading north again now to Peurto Montt, at the top of the Carretera Austral. Not sure if we are going to head north or south on arrival. One thing is for sure, we will not be doing any off-roading in Tinto 2. We have also learnt that you can avoid horse flies by wearing light clothing. I assume that is because you don't look like a horse if dressed in beige, will be worth a go. More camping adventures to follow shortly.

12th January

6 - 10 January - Cape Horn & Patagonia Expedition, Ushuai back to Punta Arenas

This blog entry will be concise and visually rich. We went to sea for five days on board a most comfortable small cruiser, Via Australis. For maps and detail, see Adam´s blog. I fear my blog site is becoming wordy and dull!!

Above: Evening one - set sail from Ushuaia, enjoyed beautiful sunset

Above: Day two - After rocky night, landed on Cape Horn. Hail stones and biting breeze - at least we cant get any further south. I turned blue. What an experience!

Above: Day two - Great walk on Navarino Island, stunning views of surrounding islands and Darwin Mountains.
Above: Day three - Walk to Glaciar Pia

Above: Day four - Zodiak trip to Glaciars Piloto and Nina, ice afloat all around

Above: Day four - thigh-deep muddy walk through forest to Glaciar Aguila

Above: Day five - Stunning Magdelena Island, teaming with wildlife including over 100,000 Magellanic Penguins, plus Arctic Turns, Skuas and Kelp Gulls

Above: Life aboard, me in ohhhhhhhhh Richard, Mrs Bouquet style cabin

Day five - 11am, arrive at Punta Arenas (YES, that place again) and we are here for 3 days before connecting to Balmaceda, our next stop in Chile.

10th January

I am sure some may be curious as to how things are going between myself and Adam. After many years of passing like ships in the night, we are now together 24 hours a day. So, here goes -

Great things about travelling with Filby:


Most pleasant company and always appreciates a good meal and a few drinkies. Above, Filby after drinking the bar dry

Looks after the money, (handy particularly in Chile where there are lots of zeros)

Very good at complaining and doesn't stand for any nonsense

Chief of Security, always on the lookout for thieves, bandits and gypsies

Very sympathetic to any ailment, apart from blisters which he insists should be burst immediately

Great technical assistance, handy on the internet and super fast at researching stuff, unlike moi

Most amusing imagination and exaggeration which helps pass the hours (apparently he has lost 6 inches from his waist during our trip)

Most patient with my love of bird spotting and phobias, which include arachnophobia and cluster phobia (fear of clusters, particularly of the fungal variety)

Above: My worst nightmare, a cluster of indian bread fungus found in beech trees everywhere in Patagonia - AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

Always willing to throw money at the situation to ensure we don't experience too much discomfort

Enjoys engaging with other travelers and doesn't share my, I´ve got enough friends attitude, which keeps things comfortable

On the downside:

Wearing pants for several days, if not longer

Continual advise on packing techniques

Requirement to allow plenty of time for transport connections, leading to hours/days unnecessarily spent at bus stations and airports

Smelly feet

Inability to have a laid back approach with any member of the service industry and general impatience, particularly with waiters.

Decision that he will not cut his ever-expanding barnet - he has already tried to knit his first dread lock

Due to laundry shrinkage, wearing trousers that reveal white ankle socks (not entirely his fault)

So on the whole, I cant complain. We are having a great time and although we both have brief moments of frustration, things are going well.

2 - 6 Jan - Ushuaia - Gateway to the Antarctic

Ushuaia´s modern history is short and uncomplicated. In a nutshell, its first European settlers were missionaries, who made peaceful contact with the native indians. The native indian population died from disease (small pox and measles) introduced by these settlers. In the early 1900´s a prison was built for Argentina´s most menacing criminals. A naval base established shortly thereafter and 2,000 Italian immigrants were employed to build houses for the navy personnel. Many stayed.

Today, Ushuaia is growing rapidly due to tourism. They have recently opened their first ski slopes and Ushuaia is the gateway for many trips to the Antarctic. We stayed in a guest house called, Posada del Fin Del Mundo (house at the end of the world), which was owned by a barking mad physcologist called Anna. I think she could have done with a counseling sessions in the mirror, but the place was nice enough.

The guest house was full of genuine scientific beardy weirdys, on route to the Antarctic, where they were leading experiments at a variety of research stations.

As someone that passionately hates the cold, tales of men that explored the Antarctic and endured temperatures so low that their teeth snapped off, intrigued me and led to some interesting reading on the discovery of the great, white, continent.

A little historic summary below (hopefully accurate, but don´t quote me):

1519 - 1522 Magellan of Portugal, during the first circumnavigation of the globe discovered Tierra Del Fuego. He was looking for ´the Southern Land´. He didn't find it but proved that Tierra Del Fuego was not attached to South America as previously thought, thus opening up a route from the Atlantic to Pacific that did not require navigation around Cape Horn.

1577 - 1580 Drake, sailing in the Pelican (later the Golden Hind) made 2nd circumnavigation of the globe and discovered Falklands, South Sandwich Islands, South Georgia and others, but the great continent was still undiscovered.

1768 - 1771 Cook, the widest ranging explorer that ever lived, found Australia and New Zealand, claiming for Great Britain.
1772 Cook in HMS Resolution and Adventure, penetrated further South than anyone before him, and although crossing the Antarctic Circle, again did not reach the Antarctic continent.

´Whoever has resolution and perseverance to clear up this point by proceeding further south than I have done, I shall not envy him the honour of discovery, but I will be bold to say that the world will not be benefited by it´ James Cook

This put off a good many explorers for a while, although Cook´s reports of seals and whales attracted the more commercially minded to travel south.

1820 Bellinghausen and Lazareu, during a Russian expedition made the first corroborated sighting of the Antartic. There were many prior accounts of the Antartic coast reported by sealers and whalers.

1831 Darwin arrives in Ushuaia on Tierra Del Fuego, in the Beagle, where he closely studies natives and described them as ´more beast, than man.´

1900 Scott of British Navy undertakes first of many courageous Antarctic expeditions.

December, 1911 Armundsen, Norwegian explorer, reaches the south pole. A near flawless execution.

January, 1912 Scott arrives at South pole, 35 days behind Armundsen. Scott and his expedition team are beaten due to inferior techniques (not using dogs, but pulling their own equipment on sledges), poor expedition planning (supplies ran out) and terrible conditions (blizzards pinned them down for weeks on end). Scott´s last diary entry was on 29 March 1912. A very sad and famous tale!

Today, no one country holds title over Antarctica. During many years of discovery, parts of Antarctica were claimed in the name of various kings and queens. Today many nations have research stations throughout the continent and treaties pledge to refrain from tapping into it´s natural resources. All efforts are being made to keep this huge continent, the 4th largest, ahead of Europe, fully preserved! I hope to make it there one day! Now, I must go and buy a book on Scott of the Antarctic.

6th January 2007

2 Jan - Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, Tierra Del Fuego (End of the world, or is it?)

Above: Patagonia is flat, vast and windy. This photo was taken as we crossed at the Chile - Argentina border on route to Ushuaia

After traveling several thousand kilometers south of Buenos Aires, we felt compelled to see the journey through to its natural conclusion. We decided we would head to Ushuaia, the most southerly point in Argentina. The downside of this decision was the twelve hour bus trip that was required to reach Ushuaia. On arrival we were pleasantly surprised by this lovely town, surrounded by mountains and nestling on the Beagle Channel. The light was bright and intense (it is daylight in Ushuaia until 11pm, dawn breaks at 4am). The wind was cutting, but we plodded around the town enjoying the fresh air, (a welcome relief after breathing salami fumes for 12 hours - urgh). We found a little Irish bar, lovely g&ts, oh dear, where is our guest house again?

We have taken in the maritime museum, the old prison museum, the double decker city bus tour (takes an hour and that is dragging it out) and we visited Tierra Del Fuego National Park. Trekking concluded in a visit to a beaver colony. Most impressed by the sheer scale of the beaver dams. Didn't see any beavers though which was a shame and surprising as there are over 100,000 beavers in Tierra Del Fuego. Introduced (of course) by early European settlers, the beaver fur business didn't succeed, but the beavers continue to happily breed and munch their way through vast areas of native beech tree forest.

Above: Aboard the route master, double deck bus tour. Reminded me of happy days riding the 237 to Shepherds Bush - although there is less chance of mugging in Ushuaia. Note, my very dodgey flicked hair.

It is legal to hunt beavers in Patagonia and there are eradication programs in place. Jon Moger (if you are reading), I can not think of a more perfect holiday for you - peace, tranquility, beautiful mountains, hip flask full of Argentinean cabernet and 19 long hours of daylight for shooting beavers.

Above: Beaver dam in Tierra Del Fuego National Park

Patagonia is divided between Chile and Argentina, and this is also the case at this southerly point, on the island of Tierra Del Fuego (Land of Fire). Ushuaia (on Argentina side) is said to be the most southerly 'city' of the south American continent. However, Chile can claim the most southerly `town´of Puerto Williams, which beckoned us from across the Beagle Channel. We spent a few hours making enquiries about how we could get to P.Williams etc. and long story short, instead of a hundred dollar ferry ride, we purchased a muchos expensive five day cruise, which will take us to the undisputed, most southerly point and the real end of the world, Cape Horn, (and we get P.Williams thrown in for free).

31 Dec - Torres Del Paine to Punta Arenas - Happy New Year

We transferred from Torres Del Paine National Park to Punto Arenas on New Years Eve. After a four hour hike before lunch, a 30 minute boat ride and over 7 hours of traveling by bus, we arrived in Punta Arenas. First impressions were poor and things did not improve. We reluctantly headed out into the driving wind and rain at 9pm in search of the party people of Chile. After finding all recommended bars and restaurants firmly shut, being growled at by angry dogs and tripping over tumble weed, I was beginning to feel doomed. Add to this, five giant blisters, hunger pains, soaking wet jeans and a bitter wind - you guessed it, I was in a MOOD.

As we turned the corner, (not stopping to admire the container ships and abandoned warehouses), we spotted the twinkling lights of a restaurante tourista. Next door to the restaurante tourista, was Broccolinos. We were greeted by a smiley waiter who showed us to the one remaining table in the restaurant and presented us with a special New Year's menu. Hooray, hooray, hooray, warm, dry, Chilean Cabernet on its way, and its a Happy New Year. A strange group of foreigners wished each other Happy New Year after we counted down to 2007. The container ships honked their fog horns and 3 flares briefly illuminated the black, wet sky. Adam refused to put his all into Auld Langs Syne, which I found disappointing. After several glasses of bubbly, and when Adam asked a Danish couple if they have many glaciers in Denmark, I thought it was time to go. A very nice evening was slightly marred by a long trudge home, throbbing blisters and a rottweiler springing out of nowhere causing me near heart failure.

Above: New Years Day in Punta Arenas

New Years Day consisted of Adam making constructive comments like, ´I am so depressed, I wonder how many people shoot themselves in Punta Arenas, I have never hated a place as much as this, I hope this is not a sign of things to come in 2007.' I sniffed out the only open Chocolateria in Punta Arenas, ordered grumpy Filby a toasted ham and cheese sarney and a large coke and luckily the mood picked up.

28 Dec - 31 Dec Torres Del Paine National Park, Chile

From El Chalten Argentinana, we traveled across the border to Puerto Natales, the gateway town to Torres Del Paine National Park.

Spent four wonderful days in the Torres Del Paine National Park and followed one of the popular trekking routes, 'The W', which takes in the highlights of the park, namely three impressive valleys, the famous granite towers (Torres Del Paine - meaning blue towers in native Indian, as the mountains ascend from a blue glacier lake to reach the sky) and the beautiful Lake and Glacier Grey (grey, as in grey - rather than the glacier milk of other glacier lakes we have seen which produce beautifully blue lakes, the minerals churned by this glacier turn the water a murky grey colour).

We stayed in refugio accommodation (ohhhh, hostals, yuk) but they were actually very nice apart from the BO and snoring. We had a lovely guide who accompanied us on our treks and shared information on the fauna, flora and the geology of the park. Filby doesn't always pay much attention to the detail, and I was most impressed during one hike when he starting naming mountain peaks and discussing their relative heights. I soon realised his hand was covered in ink - little cheat. Adam and Sherkan (a Turk in Chile don't ask) did have lively conversation regarding the merits of opening a kebab van in the park and of having dreadlocks. I ignored them and desperately tried to remember names of plants and birds that surrounded us.

Highlights of Torres Del Paine

• Walk to the Torres Del Paine (Towers), great hike and scramble over snow covered boulders to reach the glacier lake and final view of the Torres. We ate our lunch in a snowy rock shelter. During our four hour descent, the sun shone and we enjoyed a cat nap lying alongside a babbling brook.

• An adult condor flying very close overhead and watching young condors practice their flying skills, circling and trying hard to catch thermals. Only 20% of young condors pass this stage of their lives, others crash land.

• Sitting outside of refugio drinking wine and enjoying the view after a hard day of hiking.

• Hike to Glacier Grey in perfect sunshine. Walking through valley full of Patagonian summer flowers.