21st November

From Nasca traveled by overnight bus (which was 2.5 hours late) to Arequipa - Peru´s second most important city. Visited the Convent of Santa Catalina where we learnt how the good catholic nuns bribed, posioned, back stabbed and entertained, in between prayers of course.

Travelled a rough, rutted road to Colca Canyon. There was plenty to see on route, including 3 species of camelids, alpaca, llama and vicuna. Although protected in national parks, the camelids are still shaved of their fleece every year, which produces the world´s finest woolens. Adam purchased an alpaca wool hat during one of our rest stops, and although requesting, grande, grande, it is still a little on the snug side.

During our journey we reached a staggering altitude of 5,000 meters, hence our first introduction to coca, in various forms. Before our highest ascent, we stopped for a coca tea break, where we also encountered some naughty llamas and sheep that seem quite partial to a drop themselves. Coca has been used by the Peruvians for many centuries to give them energy at high altitude and it certainly does relieve the headache. Our tour guide also introduced us to the art of chewing coca, which had a revolting taste, but caused a pleasant numbing sensation. Also have tried coca in sweets and biscuits. Dont worry Mum, its all perfectly legal, here anyway!

Colca Canyon is stunning, flanked by inca and pre-inca argicultural terracing. This is still farmed today, by hand, ox and plough - not a tractor in sight. The small villages throughout the canyon uphold many traditions and depending on altitude grow a variety of crops, particularly onions! We stayed in a fantastic guest house with spectacular views and a pet alpaca called Manches (which tried to bite Adam´s feet and tip me out of the hammock). Took a breathless short hike, spotted condors, wallowed in thermal baths. During our last evening were treated to some traditional entertainment which required audience participation. This took the form of a few skips around the place, lying on the floor and having your bottom whipped. Most amusing until it was my turn!

Colca Canyon to Puno and Lake Titicaca - a most unpleasant and long journey due to altitude and choice of bad movies by Francisco. First views of Lake Titicaca were stunning. Visited the Yvari, the oldest ship on Lake Titicaca today. Although this sounds extremely dull, the story of the ship is very interesting. The ship was ordered from england in 1862, but needed to be packaged for transport by mule. The ship travelled in 2,600 pieces and took 6 years to reach Lake Titicaca, where it was assembled by ship builders from Liverpool.

Physical Update

Sadly both Adam and I have called on the assistance of the doctore. Adam, after three days of travelers tummy, is on antibiotics and boiled food for 5 days (much to his disgust). I was struck down by altitue sickness on arrival in Puno, and the was administered oxygen, an injection in the hip to cure a rash, paracetemol for temperature, blood pressure tablets and antibiotics for tummy troubles - all for the bargain price of $30. We are both feeling much better now and looking forward to yet another chicken soup for dinner.

Altitude sickness

Symptons can include fever, streaming nose and eyes, headache, nausea, upset stomach, loss of apetite. To avoid altitude sickness, stay at sea level. Symptoms can be relived by coca, or more effectively by hooking up to an oxygen tank. Think my ambitions of climbing Everest may be out of the window.

More facts about Peru:

The condor, national symbol and bird of Peru, is the world´s largest flying bird. Although elegant in flight, is a right ugly looking thing. http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2004/07/0722_040722_andeancondor.html

Colca Canyon is the world´s deepest canyon.

The Peruvians, pre Spanish colonisation, used head shaping to indentify tribes or status within tribes. Babies skulls were shaped by wooden boards, cloth and cot ends, to elongate or flatten. As the Spanish put an end to this charming practice, hats (still worn today by villagers) of different shapes serve the same purpose of indentification.

All Peruvians must vote, otherwise they are fined $40.

Llama tastes a bit like lamb.

12th November

Headed to Miraflores (tourist district of Lima) to meet up with our tour group. Adam and I visited the seaside area, where during lunch, we were joined by a lone friendly Dutch bloke called Sergio. He was drinking Pisco Sour (2 already down the hatch for him). Sergio, although nice enough on the surface, was one of life´s story tellers (not in a good way), and he ploughed his way through a further 3 Pisco Sours. Sadly Sergio could no longer walk, but we left him chatting up a gorgeous waitress who was clearly not interested in a dribbling dutch man. Went to cinema, played air hockey and had a starbucks (Oh, we are so on the edge!).

What is Pisco Sour?

A pisco sour is a cocktail from Chile and Peru which contains pisco (a regional brandy made of Quebranta or Muscat grapes), lemon, egg whites and liquid cane sugar. V.alcoholic indeed!

Met up with our tour group and everyone shuffled around sussing each other out. Very nice group of brits, irish, ozzy, new zealander and a german couple. Adam was most concerned about lack on men on the tour, but you will be glad to know he has now bonded with drinking buddies, Dave and Big Roy. Our tour guide is Francisco, with the lovely cascading hair and looks to match. He is a complete posing show-off which is most amusing, particularly if he hurts himself whilst showing off (see sand-dune surfing).

Journied to Pisco, the main income of which is derived from the production of fish based animal feed (well, you can imagine the smell). Took a boat trip to the Ballestras Islands, home to sea lion colonies, Humboldt penguins, Peruvian Pelicans and thousands of other sea birds. A fantastic trip - loving the wildlife as ever.

From there, off to Ica and the sand dunes for a couple of hours of nuttiness. Great fun. Nearly took out Big Roy at the bottom of the whopper dune, as he looked up hill and I hurtled towards him at 30 miles an hour. Francisco attempted the largest dune, standing upright and took a huge tumble and face full of sand later, limped off in a bit of a mood.

Things I have spotted from the bus window

• Large shanty towns of houses made of reed matting sprawling over sand dunes
• A happy looking dog with a large rat in its mouth
• Skinny cows (as in real cows, not just attractive thin Peruvian women)
• A man doing a poo
• Beautiful hills and desert
• Women in traditional dress (yes they really do wear trilby hats and ponchos)
• Crops of pototoes, corn, bananas, oranges, asparagus and cotton

Today we visited the Nasca Lines. We took a light aircraft over the lines. The lines consist of patterns and pictures etched in the ground over 2000 years ago, crisscrossing a wide area of flat desert. Some of the lines measure up to 10km and yet remain perfectly straight. Depictions of birds, insects and aminals are only recognisable from the air. Spooky! Archaeologist believe these may be part of complex argricultural calendar. I reckon that the Peruvian tourist board are having a laugh with us, but hey, who am I to argue. Amazing none the less. Shame I had a plastic vomit bag hooked over my ears the entire flight! http://www.crystalinks.com/nasca.html

Also visited old Nasca cemetry were mummies have been very well preserved for over a thousand years. We walked around a number of open graves and marvelled (or dry-heaved in my case) at the mummies with their perfectly preseved 20 ft long hair still attached to crumbling skulls.

We also learnt today about local minerals, traditional pottery making and gold mining.

Traveling tips

• Do not attempt to consume more than 3 Pisco Sours in one sitting. (Except if you are Franciso the handsome tour guide, who was clearly weened on the stuff).
• Do not assume that Peruvians know how to make an authentic Italian pizza.
• Always travel with your own toilet roll.
  

10th November 2006

Horah, we are off. After 5 weeks of exhausting coffee mornings and the occasional packing of a box, we are actually heading to the airport. My emotions are mixed, both excitement, nerves along with sadness of leaving my loved ones behind. What will I do without my family, the witches, my fabulous friends? Its just me and Mr Filby heading into the sunset together.

We arrive in Madrid where Mark (second cousin, 3 times removed) is awaiting our arrival. He looks very well, a right slim Jim, and we spend a marvelous day eating and drinking our way around the city. We finish our day by visiting the Arabic baths.

Facts about Madrid:

Long thin doughnuts (churros) dipped in hot melted chocolate sauce are marvelous.

traveling tips:

Do not fall asleep in an Arabic steam room at 11pm after drinking booze all day.
Always remember a hairbrush if visiting Arabic baths, particularly if you are then continuing to party with your cousin and friends.

11th November 2006

Mark headed off to work, looking every bit the school teacher, and left us to find our way to the airport on the metro. Ekk, public transport - how novel! On our way to Lima and were notified of seat upgrade as we checked into the airport lounge. Business class thanks to Adam's gold card. I fully reclined and before we knew it, had arrived in Lima.

First impressions on Lima

Lots of poverty, particularly close to the airport. Tons of people walking in the streets and the roads clogged with honking decrepid taxis and mini vans, crammed full of people. Different from anywhere I have been before - very exciting. The odd waft of poo completed the picture. Took a city tour on Sunday, accompanied by a fantastic guide, Rosa, and enjoyed the highlights of the city. Many children of Lima approached Adam and I, came up close, looked at us and laughed! The gringos have arrived.

Facts about Lima/Peru

• 10 million people, a third of Peru's population live in Lima.
• It never rains in Lima.
• Peru was freed from Spanish rule in 1821 by an Argentinean called San Martin. San Martin's square in the city center commemorates the 100 years of independence.
• Santa Rosa de Lima is the favourite saint of the Peruvians. We saw her very attractive skull in the Santo Domingo church.
• The Moche civilisation proceeded the Incas by hundreds of years, yet were more advanced in many aspects (medical understanding, architecturally etc). All aspects of their lives were depicted in detailed ceramic pottery. http://www.travelvantage.com/per_moch.html
• Peruvian families gather in the main squares on Sunday and enjoy local treats, including deep fried cow hearts and chicken gizzards. (I bottled it, but know my choices will be less varied soon).
• People in South America like to stand on the toilet seat facing the wall, and do their business from a great height. (Give me strength, even I can't hold it in for 3 months).

Our Peruvian tour starts tomorrow. We are heading to Nazca, with a little stop off for sand dune surfing. Sounds like fun!

Physical update:

So far, so good. If I continue to enjoy Peruvian chicken without ill effects, I too may have hips like Shakira (a national Peruvian icon) before too long.

Adam will not let me hold the camera for fear of Peruvian gypo's mugging it from me. Will hopefully have some photos to post soon (Mark Holding, you will be very happy). Bye for now.